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Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 502
Talk Morgan Regular
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Posts: 502
Originally Posted by Eurosystem0
Update: received the new clamp and Doughnut from Cain.
Supported silencer box, Undid front U-Bolt. It disintegrated !!
Undid rear U-bolt . came apart no-problem
Pulled exhaust to rear (didn't release rear rubber hanger.) gave sufficient clearance to remove old doughnut, clean up faces.
slip new exhaust clamp loosely over manifold down pipe, fit new U bolt over silencer pipe and loosely secure, ( This was a lesson learnt because first time I fitted the new exhaust clamp only to find it made fitting U-Bolt bloody difficult.)
Insert new doughnut with exhaust assembly paste.
Positioned new exhaust clamp with more exhaust paste and used SWIMBO to put her foot on end of tail pipe and push forward to close two pipes. First tighten forward U Bolt then and secure new exhaust clamp.
With SWMBO foot still on tail pipe, secure rear U-Bolt.

Start engine and allow assembly paste to cure.

No Leaks- job done.

But wait! This is a Morgan. Nothing goes completely well and to plan!!

Found that two of the pinch bolts on rubber bobbins had fractured (for a while it appears,)

4 New Bobbins and bolts ordered to finish the job.


What was the condition of the donut? Was it rusty and did the two sections separate quite easily?


2004 Series 1 Roadster
Joined: Feb 2021
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L - Learner Plates On
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L - Learner Plates On
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Has SWMBO taken her foot off the pipe yet?


2005 Plus 4
2020 Hyundai eKona
2020 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 528
E
Talk Morgan Regular
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Leroy: Doughnut was fairly corroded. Pipe separated easy. Cleaning residual rust and old assembly paste of pipe flares was the longest job.

Topline 123: Holy sh*t thanks for the reminder. I will just finish breakfast and then "stand her down"! rofl

Last edited by Eurosystem0; 22/07/22 08:14 AM.
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My doughnut was so corroded that the pipe was rattling, all came apart easily.


Keith
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Originally Posted by Eurosystem0
Leroy: Doughnut was fairly corroded. Pipe separated easy. Cleaning residual rust and old assembly paste of pipe flares was the longest job.

Topline 123: Holy sh*t thanks for the reminder. I will just finish breakfast and then "stand her down"! rofl


Thanks. Maybe a job for later down the line once I've got the parts needed to replace.


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Talk Morgan Guru
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I deliberately didn't use exhaust paste when re-assembling this joint. After wire brushing flares, donut and inner part of clamp I used copper grease which remains effective to over 1000°C. The parts are free to settle into a gas tight position when tightened up, with less strain on clamp. Joint will also come apart easier later.


Richard

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Originally Posted by RichardV6
I deliberately didn't use exhaust paste when re-assembling this joint. After wire brushing flares, donut and inner part of clamp I used copper grease which remains effective to over 1000°C. The parts are free to settle into a gas tight position when tightened up, with less strain on clamp. Joint will also come apart easier later.


thumbs

I used copper paste every time I worked in bike exhaust parts - that means a thousand Times.

It saved me hundred of hours when working again on the exhaust!


2005 4/4 1800ccm Duratec and a lot of HONDA CX500.......
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