Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Dash PCB-ectomy

Yet more really useful info Rog.
Just one question, does this discovery alter the diagrams that you shared with us illustrating the mods you had done, back in May. I believe that in those, the fog relay coil was supplied from the sidelight wire (R/O 76).
Think Richard queried this at the time as to whether it should be driven from the headlights though consensus was that Morgan had adopted both methods over the years.

Roger, thanks for continuing this thread. Incredibly useful information as replacement boards are very difficult to source let alone the ridiculous cost.

Thanks Doug, good point. I think its dependent on you your preference. I’m a bit of a dinosaur so quite happy with my rear fog coming on with the side lights, there are reasons why somebody might do this. However, others may be more comfortable with it working only with the headlights, more like modern cars. Either way I believe both approaches are perfectly road legal.

Re the diagram. I’ve updated it to show an either or option.

Configuring it is quite easy. Wirh reference to the diagram, you either connect the Scotch Lock connector to the red/orange wire or blue wire running in to this connector.




I couldn’t just leave it hanging Bob

Many thanks Rog. That is all extremely thorough and helpful.
If only there was an award for post of the year….!

Brilliant Rog,

Like your bump stops too!

I.ve been agitating about this PCB issue and what to do when it inevitably fails. They're not readily available and lets be honest they're crap anyway and to put them in an open top car with all that humidity around them all of the time is just plain stupid! Morgan should really have had a recall issue here and a replacement solution of better quality. Dreaming I know!

I was wondering Rog, could/would you consider putting together an instruction pamphlet and parts description of where to obtain the parts etc. or even a kit of parts and instructions for a self assembly/install, I know that I for one would be willing to pay the asking and think I am more than ready to get on and change it out before it even fails. If it came to buying a replacement PCB or the suggested above option I know where I'd be sending the money!

It's exactly like the bump stops in that its a practical simplified technical solution allowing you to enjoy the car how it should really have been supplied in the first place! and for anyone who hasn't tried Rog's bump stops, well let me just say they allow you to enjoy the car as it was meant to be without the problems it was supplied with at the rear end!

Thanks Sewin

Pleased you like the bump stops. As a newbie when I bought my first 4/4 I couldn’t believe the state of the ride and that some new cars were even leaving the factory like that. I replaced everything on the rear suspension but only got a marginal improvement. I had to do something or sell the car.

Yes I agree with your sentiments regarding the PCB, but has Morgan’s engineering team learnt anything? There still appears to be an exposed PCB’s behind a leaky dash in the latest offerings. Time will tell how that works out. Fingers crossed...

I’m only a hobbyist owner, I can’t really offer a kit, but I can certainly collect up all of the purchased parts that I used and post the list here. Unfortunately all of the metalwork and bezels are bespoke, I made it up as I went along. To be honest if I was doing it again I wouldn’t do it the same anyway. There’s scope to simplify it. I think the switch assembly would just be a single flat plate to mount the switches. I would skip the second layer that mounts the connectors. I think the 12 way coming off of the switch panel I would put on a short flying lead. I’d skip the 9 way and attach the relay panel to an umbilical loom from the switches. That would take out a bit of work.

There are many ways the warning lights could be configured too. You don’t have to do it as I did and re-use the warning light PCB. That means locating the resistors somewhere. If you mounted regular 12v bulbs you wouldn’t need them. Another alternative would be to buy 12v LED’s that have the resistors already wired in. They are pence to buy. That’s how I started out. Below is my first attempt. I printed a little LED mounting bracket that would bolt on in place of the original warning light PCB and populated it with 12v LEDs. However that never saw the light of day, it was a bit scruffy so binned it.



If you are prepared to make the metalwork there isn’t much cost here at all.

Would it be fair to say Rog to benefit others that the main active components in your conversion are generic diode protect 12 volt 30/40 amp relays such as available here and as already used elsewhere on Morgans. Defender flasher unit should be an easy one although presumably solid state one as it has to cope with two or four indicator lights. Maybe a source for any connectors needed would help as well though.

I would stay away from scotchlocks or any other form of insulation displacement connector though. They leave a connection open to damp/corrosion as well as cutting some of the multi-core cable inner, reducing current handling. Their use on the S2 Land Rover forum I belong is likened to making a pact with the devil

As Roger said, there are many ways of overcoming the pcb issue. Looking at the hazard lights circuit, I was recently motivated by a “new products” advert from carbuilder solutions, where they offer a range of double pole push button stainless steel switches, with different motifs. (Part No. SSPB) This has both normally open and normally closed contacts together with RGB LEDs which can be configured to give a selection of different colours to light up the button. They are 24.5mm diameter and fit through a 22mm hole, so I would think they would fit pretty well into the standard Morgan dash plate. That would save making up switch plates as Rog did. Note: the 160mm switch tails are colour coded and come readily installed with resistors for the LEDs. I have shown the white tail as a black dotted line for clarity.
Being double pole, it also enables the reduction of one relay. These switches can also be used for the fog, demist, spot light etc functions too as they are rated at 20 amps.

I have knocked up a drawing (not as nice as Rog, as I am using an old powerpoint software)
Acknowledgements to Rog, without whom none of this would have come about and the usual…all at your own risk of course.
I have not done this yet but just happy to share.

Doug, thanks for posting this. I’m really pleased this is sparking some discussion. I had a very brief look at the Carbuilders double pole switch and it looks very interesting. I’ll have a longer look later when I have more time but it looks just what I needed. Think you could well be on to something with an even simpler solution….

Yes they will do nicely Richard. I will post my list at some point

PS - There are many IDC's already used in our cars but other solutions are available

Well I'm starting to feel much happier now and strangely looking forward to resolving this weakness in respect of the PCB. I must say every time I'm out driving I'm just waiting for it to fail! and I don't want that spoiling our fun. I'll wait for Rog to post his parts list and I'll start collecting and designing my solution....... I'll probably have to ask for help and suggestions along the way!
Thanks so much to all who contribute, it's so helpful when dealing with areas where knowledge is lacking. I always try and answer in areas I'm confident even if it seems simple and obvious as to those it helps it is invaluable.