Thanks Sewin thumbs

Pleased you like the bump stops. As a newbie when I bought my first 4/4 I couldn’t believe the state of the ride and that some new cars were even leaving the factory like that. I replaced everything on the rear suspension but only got a marginal improvement. I had to do something or sell the car.

Yes I agree with your sentiments regarding the PCB, but has Morgan’s engineering team learnt anything? There still appears to be an exposed PCB’s behind a leaky dash in the latest offerings. Time will tell how that works out. Fingers crossed... smile

I’m only a hobbyist owner, I can’t really offer a kit, but I can certainly collect up all of the purchased parts that I used and post the list here. Unfortunately all of the metalwork and bezels are bespoke, I made it up as I went along. To be honest if I was doing it again I wouldn’t do it the same anyway. There’s scope to simplify it. I think the switch assembly would just be a single flat plate to mount the switches. I would skip the second layer that mounts the connectors. I think the 12 way coming off of the switch panel I would put on a short flying lead. I’d skip the 9 way and attach the relay panel to an umbilical loom from the switches. That would take out a bit of work.

There are many ways the warning lights could be configured too. You don’t have to do it as I did and re-use the warning light PCB. That means locating the resistors somewhere. If you mounted regular 12v bulbs you wouldn’t need them. Another alternative would be to buy 12v LED’s that have the resistors already wired in. They are pence to buy. That’s how I started out. Below is my first attempt. I printed a little LED mounting bracket that would bolt on in place of the original warning light PCB and populated it with 12v LEDs. However that never saw the light of day, it was a bit scruffy so binned it.

[Linked Image]

If you are prepared to make the metalwork there isn’t much cost here at all.

Roger
2011 Plus 4