On Saturday 27th Jan I will be visiting Surrey Rolling Road to put Monty on the rollers for the first time, this will not only give me outright peak horsepower and torque figures but because a proper graph is supplied I'll be able to see where the torque peaks in the rev range, and how long its sustained for. This is what I'm paying to see, as far as I'm concerned peak horsepower numbers are more for pub bragging rights while torque and the shape of the torque curve demonstrates far better how the car genuinely performs in the real world out on the road.
Really looking forward to seeing all your upgrades come togerther and what can be achieved with a bog standard Duratec. Good luck.
A 3% gain from the factory airbox delete, hardly earth shattering but it is a gain, I'd also stress the results are specific to the Honda S2000 tested, so it doesn't actually tell us Morganeers much really .
This is my solution on the Roadster, although the cold air ram pipe is a little undersized due to space above the engine, it collects from a nice big flared inlet so when on the move the flow is good, immediately after testing the fan hardly ever cut in
Cowl scoop
The airbox is lined with heat reflective foil as potentially a black plastic box will soak up engine bay heat & bleed this into the incoming air
I didn't seal off the bottom of the airbox as Richard did, but it's on the winter list, as is a bigger side louvre scoop as per the original S1 Roadsters
This is a well conducted test, different filters tested back to back but simply fitted in the factory airbox. ...
The K&N gives a 3% gain, which is the same as the earlier cold air intake test I linked to above where they deleted the S2000 airbox but revealingly also used what looks like a K&N.
Both tests give the same 3% gain, this seems to point to the K&N delivering the 3% gain not the airbox delete. So, if I was the OP with the GDI I'd be inclined to keep the cold air fed coffee can and just put a K&N inside it if it doesn't have one already?
[quote=CooperMan]This is my solution on the Roadster, although the cold air ram pipe is a little undersized due to space above the engine, it collects from a nice big flared inlet so when on the move the flow is good, immediately after testing the fan hardly ever cut in
Cowl scoop
Hi Jon, where did you source the cowl scoop? or is is home made?
On Saturday 27th Jan I will be visiting Surrey Rolling Road to put Monty on the rollers for the first time, this will not only give me outright peak horsepower and torque figures but because a proper graph is supplied I'll be able to see where the torque peaks in the rev range, and how long its sustained for. This is what I'm paying to see, as far as I'm concerned peak horsepower numbers are more for pub bragging rights while torque and the shape of the torque curve demonstrates far better how the car genuinely performs in the real world out on the road.
Really looking forward to seeing all your upgrades come together and what can be achieved with a bog standard Duratec. Good luck.
It’ll definitely be interesting Rog, keep in mind all I've really done to Monty is copy the Ford endorsed MR200 package that Mountune developed for the Fiesta ST150 back in 2005 .As the name suggests this kit was designed to take a 150hp ST150 to 200hp, BBR offer a very similar recipe for the Mk3 Mazda MX5 NC that also runs the 2.0 Duratec they call this their Super 200 kit which they say adds 47bhp & 26 lb/ft minimum, just like Mountune as the name suggests BBR also guarantee 200hp from their Super 200 kit.
In both cases everything I've read suggests most people achieve a little more than the 200hp quoted by Mountune and BBR, typically 203 - 207hp is delivered. Both kits take an almost identical path using a better exhaust manifold and adding performance cams but Mountune added their own inlet manifold where BBS dont bother as the Mazda inlet works really well as it is.
The MR200 kit I copied comprised of the following:
1. A better flowing equal length exhaust manifold - Reported to be worth up to 20hp
I've seen this Mountune exhaust manifold and believe Matt at Fusion Fabrications created something better for Monty, Matt was helped by the fact there's so much more room on a Morgan compared with the FWD Fiesta that forces the manifold to live jammed between the engine and bulkhead, this packaging challenge would have significantly limited the Mountune engineers in creating the optimal design.
2. A set of performance cams - Reported to be worth up to 20hp
I don't have the lift and duration information for Mountune's MR200 cams but I suspect they were quite mild or Ford wouldn't have rubber stamped the kit and warranted new ST150s fitted with it. I went with Newman Phase two cams for Monty, these are also quite mild for performance cams but I do know they are more progressive than Cosworth or Kent's Phase two cams so my Newmans may be a shade more aggressive than what Mountune chose, the truth is I really don't know? I did also fit 60lb beehive valve springs while the MR200 kit made do with stock springs, but stronger valve springs offer more resistance so they can actually kill a couple of ponies, I fitted them for safety as I wanted to explore the new peak power point of 7,250 rpm that the Newman PH2 cams deliver without fear of valve bounce
3. The fabled MR200 long runner inlet (no longer available) - Reported to be worth up to 20hp
My FF long runner inlet is really just a hand fabricated copy of this proven cast aluminum manifold Mountune designed, saying that Matt's version fitted to Monty adds internal velocity stacks that the cast MR200 didn't have, this and the tube runners combined with Matt's work to port match his manifold to Monty's cylinder head should help it perform even better than Mountune's original, lighter too! I chose this manifold over following the ITB herd as I wanted torque, and there were so many rave reviews from the ST150 community after fitting the FF inlet was a no brainer, especially as Matt's workshop is also only 25 miles from my house.
4. A reflash of the Ford ST150 ECU (A different ECU to the Visteon used by Morgan) - Really just safely ties 1,2 & 3 together to deliver the full potential of the MR200 kit
I'm sure Mountune's map was good, but almost 20 years after they developed it Monty fights back with the latest EMU Black stand alone ECU From ECU Masters. I'm also running a set of Bosch 'Green Giant' 440cc injectors where the Mountune MR200 kit made do with the standard little 225cc dribblers from Ford. A Fiesta ST150 fitted with the MR200 kit also still had to meet Ford's strict emissions targets (read still leaner than optimal) and I'm sure will have also run a super safe all out ignition angle or Ford wouldn't have offered the warranty support, knock is deadly folks! With Monty I have no such emission handcuffs holding me back and I can also safely push my timing further, right to the safe edge of knock in fact. With the help of the EMU Black I'm able to push my Duratec to 28.5 degrees BTDC all out at an optimal for power AFR of 12.93:1 under full load, these two elements should definitely give me a further edge over what the Mountune engineers were able to offer back in the day in the MR200 reflash with the risk averse Ford warranty department looking over their shoulder.
In summary:
What I've tried to create is a copy of the super well respected and well performing MR200 kit that typically delivered an additional 55hp minimum and big lovely bubble of torque right where you need it/use it on the road, but I've then found what I hope will be a bit extra in quite a few areas, and lets not forget the ST150’s DBW throttle body was smaller than Monty’s old school cable throttle body too.
So let's say I started out with 143hp and each of the three key changes (exhaust, Inlet manifold & cams) all gave 20hp, the additional 60hp would leave me with 203hp. If we then take the 3% addition from the K&N and we get 209hp which is near as damn it the 210hp Caterham gets from the Duratec in their 420R model that takes a standard engine then adds an exhaust, cams and an MBE stand alone ECU (sounds familiar right?).
Ok so the 420R also runs ITBs rather than my Fusion Fabrications long runner inlet, but I'm already showing 100 KpA at wide open throttle (WOT), thats atmospheric pressure which proves my FF inlet is a zero restriction, the Caterham's ITBs simply won't be shifting any more air!.
I was a betting man, I'd say Monty has the very real potential to deliver 207hp at 7,250 rpm and based on ST150s I've seen running the FF inlet 183 lb/ft of torque at 4,800 rpm, but 85% of that (155 lb/ft) arriving as low as 2,500rpm. However, despite being based on sound research and proven results on various Duratecs all running a very similar package of parts, it's still very much speculation!
This is my solution on the Roadster, although the cold air ram pipe is a little undersized due to space above the engine, it collects from a nice big flared inlet so when on the move the flow is good, immediately after testing the fan hardly ever cut in
Cowl scoop
The airbox is lined with heat reflective foil as potentially a black plastic box will soak up engine bay heat & bleed this into the incoming air
I didn't seal off the bottom of the airbox as Richard did, but it's on the winter list, as is a bigger side louvre scoop as per the original S1 Roadsters
That looks neat and well thought out Jon. But I can’t believe you Roadster folk still want more….
I have found promised bhp increases are rarely exclusive to one item. They are normally achieved interdependently through a package of tweaks rather than separately. That lessens the individual tweaks effect and makes dynos the ultimate humblers, though still the very best tuning devices and LOTS of fun, which you are certainly having. Do you intend to try each one by one?