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#795385 06/02/24 04:17 PM
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IvorMog Offline OP
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Advice please from some of you electronics wizards.

I've got a few wires to solder to some small connectors but my ancient soldering iron won't melt butter let alone lead free solder so I need to invest in a new one.

Question is what to buy. There is a bewildering choice from a few quid up to hundreds of pounds for professional soldering stations.

I'm thinking of tinkering a bit with electronics but not to any great level so not looking to break the bank with this purchase.

Any advice please on a basic but adequate soldering iron, does it need temperature control for example?

Also what are the best solders and fluxes to go for in the (very) amateur world?

Thanks in advance.

Last edited by IvorMog; 06/02/24 04:59 PM.

Bob

2009 Black Roadster
1999 4/4 2 litre Zetec
IvorMog #795392 06/02/24 05:07 PM
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For 'traditional' car wiring (eg 1970s bullet/spade etc) and up to 30A wiring I would have thought an inexpensive 40W iron would be fine. And ordinary lead free fluxed solder:
eg:

https://www.toolstation.com/draper-soldering-iron-stand/p86557
https://www.toolstation.com/lead-free-flux-cored-solder/p97854

or with slightly more control - a manual temp control iron: https://www.toolstation.com/draper-soldering-station/p62910

For more intricate stuff on pcbs say, or with delicate components, it is well worth getting a temperature controlled iron, with a mix of different bits. Professional units will cost £200 plus,

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?searchTerm=weller+soldering+station

(While you might think you don't need a high power set up (eg 80W) for small components, that can be important if you are rapidly soldering a number of locations at once (eg a 40 pin IC). And a high wattage can also be useful if the thing you are soldering has a large thermal capacity (eg a bit lump of copper say).

Investing in a good desoldering tool (eg something that will suck molten solder off a pcb or a connector when you are undoing something) is worth considering.

I've just suggested some examples, but I'm sure there are plenty of equally good alternatives in the same price range.


Dave
Blue 4/4 1969, Green +4 1953, (different) Green +8 1977
IvorMog #795397 06/02/24 06:44 PM
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Have a look here. Weller used to be the soldering iron of professional choice.


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
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IvorMog #795398 06/02/24 07:02 PM
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I second the vote for Weller.

I spent a few very happy years using Weller Soldering Irons on an almost daily basis in the 1980's. The rest that stops you burning the bench (or yourself) between uses is invaluable. The temperature is controlled so they don't overheat.

I only have a very cheap soldering iron as it doesn't get a lot of use. The cheapest soldering irons do not have a thermostatic control worth talking about and some can overheat - I rest mine on a heat sink (vice or large hammer) between uses.


Paul
Costock, UK
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IvorMog #795401 06/02/24 07:44 PM
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Oh dear, I seem to have strayed into a parallel universe and the "Least-frequently used tools" thread.
My assorted soldering irons (mostly) get used on an annual basis, although I seem to be a bit behind in opening the silver-soldering kits. The Fluxite flux was my Dad's; last used in the early-60's

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]


Peter
2009 3-litre Roadster "Ivor", royal ivory / green
IvorMog #795405 06/02/24 08:09 PM
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Ah! The Henley solon ........ I'm still using mine that I bought 50 years ago!

IvorMog #795408 06/02/24 08:24 PM
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I have a really old tin of Fluxite, and still use it sometimes thumbs


Jon M
IvorMog #795411 06/02/24 08:42 PM
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Can you take a photo of what you need to solder? Some terminals are solderless i.e. crimps.


2002 4/4 Zetec Indigo Blue purchased July 2023 my first Morgan
IvorMog #795431 07/02/24 09:26 AM
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IvorMog Offline OP
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These are the terminals I have to connect.

I'm almost certain they have to be soldered. Scale below in mm.

[Linked Image]


Bob

2009 Black Roadster
1999 4/4 2 litre Zetec
IvorMog #795442 07/02/24 02:06 PM
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As an alternate to soldering you could use this crimp rouind head connectors and then connect the two with a small nut/bolt/washer

[Linked Image]

This might be more convenient (but possibly less reliable) than soldering if you want the unit to be easily removable.


Dave
Blue 4/4 1969, Green +4 1953, (different) Green +8 1977
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