Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing HandBrake Adjust

Having to adjust my 2011 4/4 handbrake. I understand getting the auto adjusters set & the car jacked up with the axle resting on the chassis. But what tool do you use to get onto the adjuster nut on the cable within the parallel metal part. ?
Mine is set at it's slackest & I just can't get anything on to it to wind it up a bit after loosening the lock nut.
Thanks

A long socket or a tubular box spanner.
You need to flex the adjuster sideways a bit to slide the socket onto the adjuster. Remember, with handbrake off, it doesn't need to be done up tight, so flexing should always be possible.

Just one other point, one reason that handbrake cables need to be adjusted is that they are about to break! Take the driver side rear wheel off and closely inspect the outer of the cable where it bends to go down towards the brake drum. If the outer is damaged or split at that point, it allows water in and consequently the inner will rust, fray and break off. A common problem and real pig to replace.

Ah I haven’t got either of those of the correct size. Will see if Amazon have any on prime for next day delivery.
Thanks for info. I thought any type of socket would not fit.

Can't it be adjusted here Bob or is yours different



I would have thought maybe a pair of long nosed pliers to hold the inner locknut then work on outers with open ended or split ring spanner. Even jamming tapered end of a plain screwdriver might work on inner.

Similar Richard. Mine is parallel to the hoop however. I tried turning the threaded part, but that just started to wind the cable up. Am interested in how yours is set as mine is on max loose extension with no thread showing within the rectangular piece. I thought it was a bolt initially.

That looks pretty standard, but surprised yours appears to have maximum slack. When you apply the handbrake, is there still some extra clearance in the handbrake lever slot? I like to be able to insert a couple of fingers into the spare space.
As far as adjusting is concerned, you don't wind the threaded bit up that is attached to the cable. First undo and back off the locknut that is outside of the rectangle, hold the hexagon part immediately adjacent to the cable with a spanner to stop the cable winding up, then with a box spanner (or long nose pliers if you are lucky) screw up the nut inside the rectangular bit along the threaded shaft. This is where you may have to flex the rectangular bit to get the box spanner in. Finally, screw up the locknut.

Deejay. No there is no clearance, & a few months ago whilst on a ramp, the H/brake cable looked OK. It was replaced about 6 years ago. I know the lever should almost be vertical when the handbrake is applied. Mine is vertical but has no further aft movement. Difficult to feel but how many "clicks" does your h?brake have before biting ?
Have been looking for a swivel joint socket,(11mm?) but think that would need filing down to get on that nut within the rectangle, so will try & get a box spanner to fit. Really appreciate the help. I guess Morgan Garages have a dedicated socket for this job.

All the undoing and doing up is on the outside of the adjuster. if you have corrosion and need to hold the nut inside the adjusting bar then hold it with pipe grips.

Surely only true if the flexible cable is free to revolve inside hexagon on the male threaded part?

Pressing the button in gently and operating from off to on, mine’s set on 5 clicks.
Sounds to me that whoever changed the cable, forgot to do the final adjustment or maybe had not engaged the cable properly. When I changed mine, it needed quite a tug to get the nut on in the rectangle, so much so that it would be easy to think “that’s tight enough”but once on, it still needed a good few turns to get the setting correct as the cable seated itself.
Don't forget after adjusting, to jack up the rear and spin the wheels to make sure that the linings are not rubbing.