Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing I knew the honeymoon would come to an end

As they say time is a great healer, maybe a long winter sojourn is what I and the car need at the moment. Sue and I were smiling last night when we reflected on 5 Morgans to-date, we should have learnt the lesson by now . Mind you I really enjoyed driving her SLK this morning roof down, basking in the sun, auto gearbox imperceptivity wafting me along without a care in the world taking the second set of Morgan keys across.

On my 3.7l Roadster the relays would somehow creep out of their mounts. I know it sounds daft but try pressing them all back in. I fitted a foam strip tp the fusebox lid to hold them down.

Well we had travelled down a bumpy country lane for quite a few miles before stopping and the car decided enough was enough. I'll mention that to Mat.

On the 2012 plus 4 the relays are behind the dashboard, so only accessible if dash is removed.
The fuses however are on the underside above the gearbox tunnel, and they can easily work loose due to gravity.

Yes, and the fuses really don't have to come out very far to break the circuit. I fixed an issue with a mate's +4 recently, the indicators had stopped working. He checked the fuse and it looked ok but when I went over it the fuse wasn't actually fully bedded in its socket, even though it looked like it.

I would be unsurprised if a trip down a bumpy road could loosen a fuse or a relay sufficient to break a circuit even though looking like it was in place ok.

Are there 2 sets of fuses? My fuse panel of 6 or so fuses are on the top drivers side of the engine fire wall above the ECU box. The RAC guy took each of those fuses out and checked them.

There should also be a bigger fuse box, check under centre of dashboard.

Yes, the set under the bonnet as you mentioned but also, as Dave said, the two banks of sub fuses above the gearbox tunnel, those being the most vulnerable.

I've known bumpy roads to trigger the cut-off fuel pump safety switch on the bulkhead

I have a 1999 4/4 which is fitted with the Ford PATS (passive anti theft system ). Passive because the ignition key requires no battery for the system to work. Immobiliser's evolve and given the age difference of your car to mine this may be irrelevant. But on my car if the immobiliser is activated as on yours the immobiliser light flashes rapidly. However if you leave the ignition turned on after about one minuet the light goes out, then after a brief pause it flashes the light to give a two digit code. For example code 11 means no connection between the transceiver coil and the module. That is the coil around the ignition key barrel and the module, in my case the ECU since all of the immobiliser function is contained within the ECU. Code 12 no data received from the lock barrel pick up and so on. I have a list of 12 different codes for different problems. I have built an ECU test rig with a transceiver coil and immob light and tested a few of these codes and they work very well giving a good clue as to what has gone wrong in a situation such as yours. If you would like me to post the full list let me know.

Regards ZACH