Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Roadster 3.7 propshaft

Deffo an LSD, and the power of Roadsters can make then quite clicky without friction modifier

My +4 GDI with LSD was noisy with Red Line LSD oil in the diff. Just changed to Millers LSD oil and it quiet at the moment. Time will tell!

If you can get the propshaft out, I'd recommend taking it straight to a propshaft specialist.

Had a propshaft rebuilt recently with new uj's and then balanced for less than 60 quid.

Had a new propshaft made up for 150 quid which was less than the 350 plus VAT that the factory wanted!

Arwyn

I found the post. Here you go.
http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthread...-get-access-to-a-3-7l-roadster-front-ujs

Yep, my propshaft had never been greased either, Couldn't have been as the nipple's were the wrong length and the gun wouldn't quite engage. Signs of some effort but no grease in the spider. Might have been the old grease applied on the finger trick though! Takes more grease than you would expect from empty. I use high pressure graphite grease and that was all that exited when full. Melvyn Rutter sell the correct length nipple's, the long one's, very cheap. Not needed on the slide joint just the U/J's.

Yep, my propshaft had never been greased either, Couldn't have been as the nipple's were the wrong length and the gun wouldn't quite engage. Signs of some effort but no grease in the spider. Might have been the old grease applied on the finger trick though! Takes more grease than you would expect from empty. I use high pressure graphite grease and that was all that exited when full. Melvyn Rutter sell the correct length nipple's, the long one's, very cheap. Not needed on the slide joint just the U/J's.

Here you go Les, couple of shots of the 3.7 gearbox from a 2018 build (Dave's photos are from a 3.0)

Access will be difficult to that front output coupling flange / propshaft bolts

Well I've checked all the UJs, greased them and the propshaft, and they seem fine. I also removed all the wheels and removed what I considered to be excessive and solidified grease, and re-seated the wheels on the splines. I have also used the car a bit more and things do seem to have improved.

IcePack - yes the car does have a LSD, a BTR I believe, and friend drove the car and said it seems fine, although he also said the 'clunking' when I push the car out of the garage could be the LSD. So the next step is to replace the oiI in the diff (it is nearly 7 years old). It seems the popular choices are Castrol Transmax LSD 75w-140, Morris Lodexol XFS 80W-140 and Red Line 80W140 GL-5 Gear Oil (does it need a friction modifier too?) - which one is favourite?

It needs a friction modifier. Gomog and TM have the details. Dave w excellent sticky post includes this see here

I used this Les - click for source - you will need two bottles as despite what manual says mine took 1.6 litres with car level on ramp.



It's suitable for LSD diffs and contains a friction modifier. Been in for a few years now and it cured the clicking I was getting when maneovering on full lock. Likely better than adding pure friction modifier into existing dirty oil. Be aware there is an NS suffix variant for racing which doesn't contain the needed friction modifier.

I used my Draper hand operated gear oil pump from below. This avoids spill when filling from above and has a convenient hook on end of pipe for attachment to filler hole.