Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Front wheel alignment 2013 4/4 Roadster

My 2013 4/4 Roadster has done less than 7,000 km from delivery. I am the second owner and have done 3,000 km since purchase 18 months ago. The front tyres are showing tread wear on the outer part of the tread on both sides. I will need to take the car into a tyre specialist (Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia). When I did this with my previous 1977 4/4 4 seater there was a lot of head scratching and questions I couldn't answer about he specifications and how to make adjustments. Is there any published data/specifications available together with instructions on how to adjust camber, tracking etc? As the tyres are over ten years old I will replace them as well.
Any assistance/information appreciated.
Thanks.

From my 2014 Roadster with 3.7l V6

1. Tracking details are :-
a. Camber, 0.5 deg negative (max)
Tracking, 3mm toe in (total of both sides)

Extra bits from a friends book of frustration & errors...

Be very careful measuring Camber because if the wheels are even a tiny bit off the dead ahead then the kingpin Castor inclination will bu66er up the reading - you'll be convinced one side is -neg, the other +pos using a mag gauge stuck to the disc

Oh, and because most Mogs are built on the pi55 (inaccurate chassis) all the above is a waste of time unless you set up on a 4 wheel laser jig and make sure the rear to front is parallel

Just to be helpful rather than critical: although “Roadster” is a generic term for an open top sports car, in Morgan world, a “Roadster” is the specific name given to the 3 litre V6 & later 3.7 litre V6 models. The 4/4 is a narrower body, smaller engine etc. I only bring this up to ensure you get proper advice on any future queries.
Cheers.

According to the parts book adjustable camber plates and matching kingpins were introduced in May 2011. Given you have a 2013 4/4 it should have these. Camber measuring tools, as below, that magnetically attach to disc are available via Amazon or eBay.



Chassis needs to be laterally level though and as John mentions steering dead ahead. Handbook confirms camber at 0.5° negative.

Note the rounded top of the kingpin each side forms the pivot point during camber adjustment, if necessary. Kingpin top bolt as well as lower nut need to be loosened a little therefore before adjustment can be made. Worth checking tracking as well, best performed at a garage/tyre shop equipped with laser measuring equipment.

Problem is you need a laser flat garage floor and you can't jack the front to get better access to nuts during adjustment as it twists & bu66ers up the alignment, I've got one of those magnetic camber tools Richard shows above and to be honest they ain't very accurate by the time you swop it from one side to another and try to read just half a degree

I just use it for 'roughing up' the geometry if I've had something major apart and then take it to the pro's for a 4 wheel jobbie