Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) +4 GDI cold start

Am I right that it can be lifted through the aluminium inspection plate behind left had seat?

Yes it does but you might need to take the tool tray/parcel shelf out first to remove the battery restraining clamp from above

Yep thats the way to get it out! neg terminal first and tuck it out of the way. Good advice about water in the plug wells, especially no 1, front of car is no 1,it fills with water and eventually the water can capilary up the rubber boot and short that plug. This has a strange effect on the start cycle. Also take your plugs out every year and check/clean them. I know there are arguments re applying anti seize to the threads but do! use the alloy version rather than the copper slip as the copper can degrade the alloy threads in the head. Or use a graphite grease as there will be some graphite lube left even after the lube element has been burnt off. A previously fitted plug needs only hand/wrist pressure to tighten and a new plug you will feel the crush washer collapse and then a couple of degree's. Yep the duratec has tapered seats, just added this for those who are reading this and have the other type! If you are not sure use the advised torque setting which is very low so don't go cranking them up tight with your 1/2" ratchet wrench!
Spark plugs, well I've tried the fancy and expensive iridium plugs and the copper core..... v...cheap and quite frankly there's no performance difference and although they are supposed to exceed 100,000 miles they don't fare well in the duratec head so I change out the copper set every year and I find that the best way to go. Each to their own but when you've seen how the old plugs look when removed I'd rather be sure I'm on new plugs.

Fly by wire throttles usually have three positional potentiometers and if you get throttle issues it can be a dodgy one of those. Older variants can just have two fitted, not sure where the GDi is here but two can give strange throttle variations especially on start up.

Firstly you will need a 16 mm plug socket. Go on to ebay and buy a 3/8" drive magnetic version with a UJ joint piece as part of the socket, dirt cheap! Adequate extension bars will be required as they sit deep in the head. You will appreciate the magnetic function when you use it. When you crack the plug loose before removal make sure you get all the water out, I use a syringe and tube then an air line to dry. Don't be in a hurry to get the plug out. If its clearly corroded and the body rusted start to remove it a few turns and then re fit gently repeating this process. squirt some plus gas or similar down the hole and continue the removal process until about 3/4 way out. Now blow or suck out any debris that will now be sitting around the base of the plug and check its clear then finally remove the plug. You can see clearly the state of things now with a torch. Fit new plug as described earlier and use a dielectric grease on the coil/plug boot and top of plug.

If you look in your hand book it will list the plug type, I would recommend NGK as a brand, there are spark plug comparison sites which will give you the options for different makes. Physically compare size of new with old prior to fitting as subtle length difference can matter!

That looks like a new plug....

As its under warranty it might be prudent to send a cold start video to your dealer for their opinion?