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Joined: May 2012
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,639 Likes: 20 |
Am I right that it can be lifted through the aluminium inspection plate behind left had seat? Yes it does but you might need to take the tool tray/parcel shelf out first to remove the battery restraining clamp from above 
Roger 2011 Plus 4
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Joined: May 2025
Posts: 47 Likes: 6
Just Getting Started
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OP
Just Getting Started
Joined: May 2025
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Am I right that it can be lifted through the aluminium inspection plate behind left had seat? Yes it does but you might need to take the tool tray/parcel shelf out first to remove the battery restraining clamp from above  Thank you Rog duly noted!
Adam 2019 Green +4 "the Toad"
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Joined: May 2025
Posts: 47 Likes: 6
Just Getting Started
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Just Getting Started
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 47 Likes: 6 |
Yep thats the way to get it out! neg terminal first and tuck it out of the way. Good advice about water in the plug wells, especially no 1, front of car is no 1,it fills with water and eventually the water can capilary up the rubber boot and short that plug. This has a strange effect on the start cycle. Also take your plugs out every year and check/clean them. I know there are arguments re applying anti seize to the threads but do! use the alloy version rather than the copper slip as the copper can degrade the alloy threads in the head. Or use a graphite grease as there will be some graphite lube left even after the lube element has been burnt off. A previously fitted plug needs only hand/wrist pressure to tighten and a new plug you will feel the crush washer collapse and then a couple of degree's. Yep the duratec has tapered seats, just added this for those who are reading this and have the other type! If you are not sure use the advised torque setting which is very low so don't go cranking them up tight with your 1/2" ratchet wrench! Spark plugs, well I've tried the fancy and expensive iridium plugs and the copper core..... v...cheap and quite frankly there's no performance difference and although they are supposed to exceed 100,000 miles they don't fare well in the duratec head so I change out the copper set every year and I find that the best way to go. Each to their own but when you've seen how the old plugs look when removed I'd rather be sure I'm on new plugs.
Fly by wire throttles usually have three positional potentiometers and if you get throttle issues it can be a dodgy one of those. Older variants can just have two fitted, not sure where the GDi is here but two can give strange throttle variations especially on start up. Thank you Sewin, all well and duly noted. I plan to pull at least plug #1 to see if water has flooded the "valley of death" and caused corrosion. Any guidance as to specific plugs (model numbers, etc) in the event replacement is required? (Sorry if a silly question -- I haven't changed a plug since fussing around with a Honda mini bike 45 years ago...)
Adam 2019 Green +4 "the Toad"
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Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 678 Likes: 61
Talk Morgan Regular
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Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 678 Likes: 61 |
Firstly you will need a 16 mm plug socket. Go on to ebay and buy a 3/8" drive magnetic version with a UJ joint piece as part of the socket, dirt cheap! Adequate extension bars will be required as they sit deep in the head. You will appreciate the magnetic function when you use it. When you crack the plug loose before removal make sure you get all the water out, I use a syringe and tube then an air line to dry. Don't be in a hurry to get the plug out. If its clearly corroded and the body rusted start to remove it a few turns and then re fit gently repeating this process. squirt some plus gas or similar down the hole and continue the removal process until about 3/4 way out. Now blow or suck out any debris that will now be sitting around the base of the plug and check its clear then finally remove the plug. You can see clearly the state of things now with a torch. Fit new plug as described earlier and use a dielectric grease on the coil/plug boot and top of plug.
If you look in your hand book it will list the plug type, I would recommend NGK as a brand, there are spark plug comparison sites which will give you the options for different makes. Physically compare size of new with old prior to fitting as subtle length difference can matter!
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Joined: May 2025
Posts: 47 Likes: 6
Just Getting Started
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OP
Just Getting Started
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 47 Likes: 6 |
Firstly you will need a 16 mm plug socket. Go on to ebay and buy a 3/8" drive magnetic version with a UJ joint piece as part of the socket, dirt cheap! Adequate extension bars will be required as they sit deep in the head. You will appreciate the magnetic function when you use it. When you crack the plug loose before removal make sure you get all the water out, I use a syringe and tube then an air line to dry. Don't be in a hurry to get the plug out. If its clearly corroded and the body rusted start to remove it a few turns and then re fit gently repeating this process. squirt some plus gas or similar down the hole and continue the removal process until about 3/4 way out. Now blow or suck out any debris that will now be sitting around the base of the plug and check its clear then finally remove the plug. You can see clearly the state of things now with a torch. Fit new plug as described earlier and use a dielectric grease on the coil/plug boot and top of plug.
If you look in your hand book it will list the plug type, I would recommend NGK as a brand, there are spark plug comparison sites which will give you the options for different makes. Physically compare size of new with old prior to fitting as subtle length difference can matter! Thank you sewin this is extremely helpful. Magnetic spark plug socket with UJ fitting, dialectric grease, ceramic lubricant, a can of compressed air, and some NGK plugs are on order. Water extraction mechanism subject to further research once I've had a chance to pull the coils and have sight of the depth of the plug wells. Again, excellent and clear advice, much appreciated!!
Adam 2019 Green +4 "the Toad"
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Joined: May 2025
Posts: 47 Likes: 6
Just Getting Started
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OP
Just Getting Started
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 47 Likes: 6 |
Reporting back on the issue above. First and foremost, thanks everyone for such helpful guidance: 1. I put in a new battery and that seemed to clear things up considerably, no "machine gun" sound (of course), and she started right up. 2. DaveW: Like you, I purchased an inexpensive ELM 327 bluetooth code reader (image below, if I've figured out the image posting correctly), and like you I wasn't able to get it to connect, so ended up purchasing a Motopower unit, which seemed to work fine. ![[Linked Image]](https://tm-img.com/images/2025/07/13/IMG_2124.jpeg) 3. The car was throwing a "pending" code/freeze-frame for very low engine coolant temperature, which ChatGTP indicates may be the residue of failed startup attempts on weak battery or potentially a busted coolant temperature sensor, and suggested clearing that and seeing if it returns, which I have done. No other codes. 4. Per the suggestion of John and Sewin I pulleg the #1 plug. Looked at it. And then realized I had absolutely no idea what I was looking for! I didn't see any rust, and the pointy little bit didn't seem to be worn out or anything. It was however fairly greasy on the threads, don't know if that means anything. A picture below -- if anyone has any diagnostic observations based on this picture they would of course be gratefully received! ![[Linked Image]](https://tm-img.com/images/2025/07/13/IMG_2110.jpeg) 5. I have been following Allen's protocol of holding the RPM up for a bit on cold start and that really does seem to be helping. If I do nothing on cold start the RPM drops quite low (<800) and the shaking returns, so now I just hold it up with the throttle pedal and after a couple of minutes it smooths out. Thank you again to everyone who chimed in on this! Adam.
Adam 2019 Green +4 "the Toad"
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Joined: May 2025
Posts: 47 Likes: 6
Just Getting Started
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OP
Just Getting Started
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 47 Likes: 6 |
Saw now the picture of the spark plug wasn't terribly sharp. Here's another one: ![[Linked Image]](https://tm-img.com/images/2025/07/13/IMG_2109.jpeg)
Adam 2019 Green +4 "the Toad"
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Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 5,046 Likes: 313
Charter Member
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Charter Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 5,046 Likes: 313 |
Your spark plug looks very clean! ... usually you're looking for a straw/light coffee brown for a good mixture ... with black and sooty generally meaning running rich. To my eye (other, no doubt more experienced, eyes are available!) your plug is a bit of a blank page. The oily thread is most likely down to the previous owner trying to avoid corrosion and not an engine indicator.
K
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,639 Likes: 20
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,639 Likes: 20 |
That looks like a new plug....
As its under warranty it might be prudent to send a cold start video to your dealer for their opinion?
Roger 2011 Plus 4
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Joined: May 2025
Posts: 47 Likes: 6
Just Getting Started
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OP
Just Getting Started
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 47 Likes: 6 |
That looks like a new plug....
As its under warranty it might be prudent to send a cold start video to your dealer for their opinion? Thank you Rog. As I look at it, it does look suspiciously un-burned. But I have put over 1,000 miles on the car since I got it three weeks ago (and obviously haven't put in new plugs during that time), and I don't quite know what to make of that. Hard to believe it's only been firing on three cylinders all this time, as it feels quite peppy...
Adam 2019 Green +4 "the Toad"
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