I've yet to investigate further on the Morgan, but it was the case to stop draughts entering the cabin through the door mechanisms etc, that car manufacturers would put a plastic barrier/sheet across the inside of the entire door framework, which was then covered over by door panel.
22 Plus Four KIMI 12 Plus 4 Sport OZZY 08 Roadster FELIX 06 4/4 70th LOKI 77 4/4 SEAMUS 85 4/4 MOLLY
That is the 'finesse' stage. At the moment I can't tell if anything is coming via the inside of the door, the wind and daylight that comes in from around the door overwhelms all other draughts!
If it has the Sennheiser audio, and it probably does, there’s no room behind the rear panel for a storage compartment. But that’s not consistent with the stereo being poor and weak, the Sennheiser syestem is good in my car, even at Motorway speed.
For anyone contemplating a new Plus Four, I recently discovered that the storage compartment in the rear panel is no longer available to specify due to a refinement of the standard sound system.
Paul Costock, UK Plus Four 75th - Furka Rouge - Pip Disco 5 Teddy - 17h1 Irish Draught cross
Making progress with the wind gaps. A question on the hood and sidescreens:
- when I got the car home, I noticed on the passenger side, the hood to windscreen clamp at the top of the A pillar was undone. I did it up and tested it with a short drive. It came undone again. When I do that clamp up, the little release button is not popping out to lock it in. There is some adjustment there. I screwed the clamp up as far as it goes and this holds the hood tighter to the top of the windscreen frame, but the little lock button only pops out if I encourage it. So, better than it was, but still not working automatically like the driver's side. It seems like it could do with one or two more 360deg rotations, but I'm at the end of travel. I'm also concerned that i may put too much strain on the windscreen frame. Anyone come across this and fixed it?
- The rear sidescreen attachment 'nuts' on both sides were stiff to finger tightening, but did another couple of turns with the key-ring tool. The front ones were tight. Using that tool, I've tightened the rears to a pretty firm pressure, but not gorilla tightness. The gaps in the door to sidescreen seals now look pretty good and the sidescreens feel firm on the door. Have I done the right thing, how tight should they be and should I be using the key-ring tool to tighten them?
- The sidescreen seal that slots into the back of the window section is a letter 'B' x-section. On both sidecreens it has split in the centre (i.e. become two smaller 'D's!). For now I've tried to stick them back together with contact adhesive. I doubt it will last. Anyone else come across this / fixed it?
this handover video for a Plus Four (basically the same) may be worth watching for a general overview, eg installing the side screens with the doors open.
22 Plus Four KIMI 12 Plus 4 Sport OZZY 08 Roadster FELIX 06 4/4 70th LOKI 77 4/4 SEAMUS 85 4/4 MOLLY
I think I can see my sidescreen issue now. It's really noticeable how the threads on his fasteners are MUCH more free turning than mine, which are stiff all the way out. I will try working the fasteners with some light lubrication on the threads.
I am doing the hood his way, but on my A pillar catches, I have a little button that engages through each clamp handle, which locks them on. I didn't notice him mention this in the video. On the driver's side, that button automatically pops out when I clamp up the hood. It serves to lock the clamp on when the hood is up. When lowering the hood, the clamp on that driver's side doesn't just unclip, I have to push that little locking button down before the clamp can be released. So that side works well.
However on the passenger side, when I raise the hood, that lock button is visible, but not engaging into the clamp handle. As a result, whilst the clamp is fully down with the hood sitting nicely on the windscreen frame, the clamp is not locking down. It undoes when driving. As a result, the passenger side of the hood is lifting up about an inch on that side of the windscreen rail. This compromises the fit. It must also put more of the strain onto the driver's side clamp.
The levers on these clamps look to be adjustable. They rotate and go up/down on screw threads. By adjusting the passenger side lever upwards (turning clockwise), I've raised the lever to its max position. Now the little locking button can just be pushed on to engage. But there's not quite enough adjustment for the button to automatically lock the lever like on the driver's side. So, I am hoping I've sorted the problem of that side unclamping. However, I could do with a little more adjustment, so the button locks automatically and is more securely engaged.
Just wondered if anyone else has come across this and fixed it?
Same fasteners as on my P6, and I assume most of the CX cars MY23 and beyond. In the early days I occasionally had difficulties getting the clamp fully closed, but usually that was due to the front rail not being fully engaged, or operator error in securing the rear hood rail before the front clamps. I also wondered whether the hood needed to stretch a little, it was much easier after the hood was in place for the winter but that may just have been having more experience.
I'm don't think I'm finding it over-tight. The hood is fully clamping down fine at the front. It's just that the little securing button isn't engaging correctly.
Why does Henry (in the video at 5 min) say that "personally, I would run my car on E10 because it is better fuel"? I thought the lower Ethanol E5 would be the best fuel.
