Hi, I want to lubricate the rear leaf springs on my 2019 Plus 4. I "think" the rear jacking point using a trolley jack, would be the rear chassis rail going across the car but I'm not sure whether I would foul the fuel tank or the plywood? I would then support the axle with 2 axle stands. Similarly if I needed to change a rear wheel out on the road, where is the jacking point for that? Cheers Ray
If you look just forward of the rear wheels, you should see chassis cross members coming out from the main chassis. That’s where you apply the jack for a roadside wheel change and also a good place for axle stands. As far as jacking the whole car is concerned you are correct. I use a length of hardwood across the chassis rail to spread the load a bit and ensures that no sharp edges of the jack can foul the chassis etc.
If you roll back the carpet behind the seats and lift out the plywood sheet and the tool tray you will have more light and more access to the leaf springs. Lubricate with motorcycle chain squirt.
Chris
2015 Plus 4 Silverlake Blue (2014 3.7 Roadster Crystal Blue) (2012 4/4 Sport Black)
Ray, you can also jack on the diff but I used Chris' method ie take out the plwoodrer shelf & spray from there. I have a wooden piece I made for the rear member. You are welcome to it if you want it.
JohnV6 2022 CX Plus Four 2025 Renault Scenic Alpine etech "Yvette"
Thanks guys, I used Deejays method to jack up the car with a bit of hardwood plank. To my surprise the sporing's were quite oily so M Rutters must have done that in their service before selling the car to me? I will investigate rolling back the carpet and removing the plywood sheet next time to get the better access. John, thanks for the offer but I dont need your wooden piece - see above.
Yes I too agree with this advice, I have messed about jacking them for years and find the rear cross member plenty strong enough on a car of your years age. You can jack easily using the diff as well. It's an Australian pick-up trucks diff/axle so plenty strong enough. If you want to use the rear cross member, it's the one that sits forward of the spare wheel mount, you'll see three little 2BA bolts hanging down....... It's not the one right at the back of the car. Oh no! that's wood! Depending on what you want to do under there you can place the axle stands under the axle tubes or the cross member forward of the rear wheels as Deejay said.
If you wish to place the whole car on axle stands then this is how I would do it .
Start at the back as we've just covered, chock the front wheels first! If you're going straight in with the jack you will need a low entry racing type jack with a reasonable reach or you can jack both side evenly using the forward cross member with small jacks to gain access height for a standard trolly jack at the back. When happy fit axle stands to either the axle tubes or forward cross member.
Now the front, again here the crosshead on your car is plenty strong enough. You will see the central section has a big X shaped strengthener. Place the jack centrally right under the axle tube under the centre of the X. Jack the car up to your desired height then position the axle stands under the lower axle tube, one each side just outside the central square on the wheel side, say leaving a few inches from the weld. I use 6 ton axle stands as they have greater stability and better height option. This makes the car impressively safe to work on and under.
If you are ever using a lift then the jacking pads remain the same for the rear ie. the forward chassis cross member but the front is at a point on the chassis legs. If you open a bonnet and at the bulk head look straight down at the chassis you will see a triangular fillet pointing forward. it strengthens the crossmember to chassis joint. There's one each side and you place the jacking points under these straddling the chassis rail and the Webb fillet..... hope that's all clear!
Now here's a problem. It.'s not advisable to jack one side of the car up or just one wheel either. The front is fairly simple, centrally under the crosshead and raise both wheels. The Back a little difficult. If it's possible under the axle by the wheel and just enough to clear the wheel from the ground, if not, the forward cross member will have to be your choice of placing. I made a jack base support which fits into the tool tray where a first aid kit is designed to go This increases stability by incorporating a couple of steel dowels to locate the jack to it, again just enough lift though to clear the ground. I presume you have centre-lock wheels. loosen before jacking! And perhaps I may be as bold as to say, it's a good idea to check the tightness of these say every few hundred miles..... not because they will fall off, no in fact the opposite as they tighten in use and if you ever have the misfortune to need to change a wheel out in the wild you don't want to find you can't undo the blessed thing.. I have made and carry, fitted to the car; an extended spanner for this purpose as I don't want to be on the moors in driving rain at night and can't get the wheel off! But then again as per Sod's Law it won't matter what you have made provision for it'll always be something you hadn't planned for! So RAC membership in the toolbox is a good idea!
God all these words to say something so simple! However we're here, rear leaf spring lubrication, Well the collective have explained access most eloquently. These leaf springs can actually make or break your pleasure time with a Morgan. They have very limited travel and need to work properly. Firstly, with the car on the ground or better still with the rear jacked up and on axle stands under the axle tubes. liberally spray the leaves of the springs with penetrating oil, next ... make a cup of tea and enjoy! After about 20 minutes using the spare wheel or it's mount bounce the car up and down many times. you will see the red rusty muck come pouring out. repeat and repeat. If you can treat and bounce over a couple of days that would be even better. You will see the red rust start to clear. Let it dry overnight if you can then, and this is what I have found best. start using a light engine oil, go sparingly as its hard to get it into the leaf interfaces... paint brush and tin is the best. Then back to the bounce oil repeat! You'll know when you've hit the jack pot. Now finish with some grease applied again with a paint brush just sparingly. This catches any of the turbulently present grit that flies around under the car and allows you to easily wipe it down before re-servicing the springs the next time. NOW go drive the car this will be the best thing you have done to it so far. It will also allow you to assess your car and how loaded etc. it is. To further finesse it adjustable shocks might need sourcing or adjusting if you already have them fitted. Lastly, There is a member who posts on here under the name Rog. He makes suspension assisters that are as easy as lego to fit and their improvement to the rear end is beyond remarkable. Save £150 of Britains finest and buy a set! Of everything I have done to my car these and BRB's.... brake reaction bars, are the two most remarkable upgrades I would not be without!
To those here who know all this... well I apologise, to those who don't.... this is an important parable!
Best of luck and remember this is fun...... enjoy Ray!
Sewin, I just wanted to shout out a giant "tusen tack" (many thanks) for your truly comprehensive explanation of how to jack up a trad Morgan. I'm printing it out and putting a copy in the car!
You're welcome Adam, Morgan has been around for over 100 years and apart from engine and transmission upgrades over the years much of the design of the 4 wheelers still lies in 1936 and 1951. H.F.S. Morgan made sure a man or woman who owned one in those early years could service and maintain it on their drive ( probably a yard then) with a jack and a rudimentary toolkit and this remained true for classic cars up until 2019. Later CX/CXV chassis cars are more complex and very different although work can be carried out here too. However post 1960's cars where most of us learned our how-too's of checking and maintaining cars kept moving forward as Morgan stayed in the very traditional. This now makes them the different option where ownership is required and it is sites like this that pass the knowledge on, or pass it forward as seems to be the saying now! So, the Classic Morgan is a simple car but there are a few things you need to know when working on them and what to look out for or check and of course all those things we haven't had to do to car since the 1970's. But what it does give in bucket loads is the pleasure of driving a car and looking after it, and when you have it to your liking you will have made that happen. Then don't forget to ask yourself........ How does a car designed in the 1930's manage to outdrive in most areas all those modern cars? To get something close you'd have to spend way over £100,000 and it still might not corner as well!
1. Never trust any jack alone, especially the ones that come with a vehicle. and double that if you are doing it roadside. Raising an awkward 1000 kilo object at one contact is inherently dangerous and few jacks that come with a car are adequate
a. Even when in your garage or driveway, raise the vehicle, lower it onto jackstands, Leave the jack in place, merely removing the jack arm. b. If roadside dealing with a flat, leave the removed wheel nearby under the car.
2. Jacking using any point on the chassis (or crosshead/crossmember) compresses the suspension. Jacking at the axle, drops the suspension. This is especially important at the rear when trying to access the U-bolts for their annual tightening.(necessary if you still using MMC u-bolts and saddle plates) Many trad owners keep jacking until they allow the shorter outbiard bolts damage the all-important chassis flange.
Lorne
P.S. BTW, my wife and I adore Northern Wales! One of our all-time favourite mogging areas worldwide.
