Talk Morgan Forums Thread Like Summary - 2018 Plus4 GDI won‘t start

After a very great journey in his homeland with more than 2600KM we‘re at home. The MOG runs great, „no beat missing“…

Only one time, he doesn‘t like to go too slow ;-). But all fluids are as they should be, no parts lost. Only the fronthinge of the bonnets needs a screwdriver and a spanner.

But today I thought it‘s time to give him a good wash.

But that was my idea, not the „plywoodracers“ idea. He won‘t start.

With only 12.3V no problem, the engine turns. And also a smell of fuel. And it turns, and turns and turns… only sometimes a quiet hustle of a spark. So clear: No spark.

But why? Where I must look? The OBD reader shows nothing.

My wifes diagnostic: oh, so a great journey, so much Kilometers… but he wasn‘t out since 14days… (means: low voltage?)

Thank you for some ideas!

Greets René

another thought just came to me, This seems like a problem that used to regularly occur on lots of Ford cars and it turned out to be the ignition switch electrics module that sits at the back end of the ignition barrel, so the electrical connector attached to the far end of where the key goes in but right at the back end. Its plastic and wears badly. cheap to replace and simple it just sits between the electrical connector and the rear of the barrel assembly. No one could find the fault originally until a chap came in and said if he put pressure on different directions of the key, sometimes push it in, others lift it or pull it down he could get it to start. we all initially thought transponder but it wasn't!

He‘s alive!

But not shure why. The last things I do: change the camsensor and one ignitioncoil. Than after a look at the wiringdiagram I found the earthpoints. A very little try to move the wires, but: tight.

Than the battery (after two days at the „fresher“) back in the car. Connect the OBD reader and turn the key for some informations.
Nothing wrong. Than turning the key full for a start. And I wonder: it sounds different to the last tries. Hold the key and let crank the engine. Oh, a little spark?

And, real, it fires up. A little struggling and shaking, but alive. Than switch off and a new try. Alive again. Also a few hours later.
And a little bit smoother.

In the moment it runs with the electric bridge at the fuelrelais behind the sparewheel. Tomorrow I‘ll connect the relais and will see what happens. If it‘s running more or less nice I‘ll do some Kilometers around the corners in the neighborhood. If this would be successful I drive to the guys from the local MOT-service for a professional OBD-test.

Very happy with the help here! Thank you all for your help and ideas!

Greets and Regards

René

Try a booster start 12.3v probably not enough to spin the engine and provide spark.

My GDI lasted 4 years on a battery that displayed 12.2v at best on the dash display. It would start down to below 11.9 volts IF you could get the imobiliser to unlock.

If it smells of fuel it's missing the spark or it's at the wrong time. Check the crank sensor and wiring.
Cheers
John.

From memory, the crank sensor is on the offsite, near the pulley.

I would get the plugs out, and see if they are wet. Put them back after a warm. Good luck!

Rene.....Sewin is referring to the fuel pump voltage relay, which is energised from the ECU. In 2016 it was underneath the spare wheel plate. I suspect it will still be there on a 2018, so take a look.

This image shows it when the spare wheel plate is removed. It's from a Ford Focus. BHM told me that so far they have not needed to replaced this relay.

Not sure I quite understand re the cam sensor at cylinder 3, do you mean there was no spark at plug 3 when there should have been If so see if the coil -on- plug works for no. 3 if fitted in an alternative position , say no. 2 position. Have you also checked the head earth, small bolt at rear of the head. I have seen them with brown or black wire connected. also do a continuity check with the plugs fitted. First check that the earth connection between the body of the plug and head are good, then check the plug electrode top connector is not earthed with the head, ie a shorted plug through an internal breakdown, this will have more of an effect than just causing one cylinder to stop working.

Again, when the engine is turning over is there fuel reaching the cylinders, and when you first turn the ignition on can you hear the fuel system prime to pressure then stop? there has to be either no fuel or no spark Unlikely that you have lost both but not impossible

Rene, web page can be translated to German....?


https://www.motorreviewer.com/engine.php?engine_id=134

It happened to mine, plus a couple of other GDi's I know. You're right Dave - Keith at BHM cranked it over for about 15 seconds and it fired up. It worked on the others too. I believe it was due to unspent fuel seeping down past the piston rings causing loss of compression. Cranking it over restored compression.

Note René has another thread running relevant to the same issue here. At the moment I'm waiting to hear if he can confirm the ignition relay is functioning and providing power to the following five circuits: coils, VVT, MAF, lambda/purge and high pressure fuel pump, each independently fused. He has confirmed he can hear the tank fuel pump running but it appears he has no spark and dry plugs

I've not read the whole thread, but just noticed your car is 2018 Rene.

If it's still on the original Banner battery at 7+ years old it will definitely have lost some capacity and may well be about to fail completely

Thank you Jon for this idea, it looks like the battery is one of the main points to cure a little tired starting.

;-) the plywoodracer has got his third battery in one of the first steps to cure the problem.

Greets René

The text on that fuel pump module is:

H8QTB
AU5A-9D370-FC

Made in USA.

Replacements on E Bay have 8 pins and made in Romania. Used originals are also available on E Bay. It was in common use on Fords.

FWIW my spare controller has the same 9D370 reference and FoMoCo moulded in to body. It's an 8 pin device as is the Plus 4 GDI one although only five are used.

Interesting Dave as that doesn't concur with the rear wiring loom schematic for that model as shown bottom left on this screenshot from the 2014 onwards parts book.

Glad you finally got there René

Congratulations René :happy. 3:

The „thing“ has different names. It‘s the part that Dave W. shows. MMC has two different „official“ names and on the FORD box there is a third name.

But now: as I said the MOG doesn‘t run well. A 30miles testdrive: hmmm… up to 1200/1500rpm, 1500/3000rpm bad, struggling, from 3200 on like hell…

So a stop at our local MOT-Center and a professional look at the OBD. Nothing wrong. But the man says: strange, sounds wrong. May be sometimes one cylinder missing?

At home I changed back from the new BOSCH to the demaged (missing safety nose) FOMOCO coil: running smooth and straight through the revs.

But also the next problem: I can‘t read the part.-no. DSVYA or D5VYA?

There is also a post about it.

VERY happy, only one step and the problem is solved. He runs like hell…

Greets and Regards

René

This morning I‘ve got the original FOMOCO/ FORD coil. And fit it. Also „rebuild“ the plywoodracer.

Later in the day there was the question about meeting friends for a glass of wine. So: let‘s try the MOG! A great journey on small roads. Rheinhessen. A very nice area.

Back on the way home my wife said: „Gut repariert“. It means something like „good work“.

So it‘s also a thank you to the poeple here! From my wife and me.

Yes, the Plywoodracer or as my wife says „Autochen“ is back to life.

Greets and Regards

René

And yes, have a look at a sports green German Plus4 in early September.