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tow bar
by G Walker - 24/08/26 06:52 PM
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Forums39
Topics49,836
Posts837,252
Members9,596
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Most Online1,063
Jun 14th, 2026
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| by Neville1 |
| Neville1 |
Hi, I'm used to much sharper braking than my 2018 4/4 has. I've had new replacement OE discs, brake fluid flush and Mintex pads but my 1.6 Fiesta still has much sharper brakes. Any thoughts?
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| by RichardV6 |
| RichardV6 |
Do you know the EBC Green Stuff part number number for a 2018 4/4? I think the calipers are 4 pot APs they have the Morgan wing badge on them. DP2243 Neville available here
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| 2 members like this |
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| by Deejay |
| Deejay |
Don't overthink this folks...good 'owd FERODO FDB 832 is all you need If they could stop a two ton Princess...  Exactly what I have and no complaints. Plus, they are much cheaper than ebc.
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| by Deejay |
| Deejay |
Great to find this post. I always wonder about the „brakepower“. But at the journey I had the bad expierience that I must must brake very hard at about 105mph at a german motorway. The „Sperrholzrenner“ (plywoodracer) wants to go massive to the right. The same for the next 50 to 70miles of the journey. Than it would turn a little better.
At home I realized that about 800miles after greasing the kingpins some grease was at the brakediscs. Now I want to change the brake pads. In Germany it‘s difficult to get them at my favorite dealer. After some ideas here I can get a paar of TWR pads next week.
But now the main question: I think I must use LOCTITE or something like that for the screws of the brake calipers? And: what is about the torque to fit them?
Thank you for your help and sorry about my bad english (I hope you enjoy it)
Greets René You do not need to remove the calipers to replace the pads.Simply hold down the anti-rattle clips and push both of the dumbell pins out. The calliper pistons can usually be easily pushed back in with a suitable length of slender wood. Be careful to release the cap on the brake fluid master cylinder first and ensure the level isnt too high so it doesn’t overflow, or pack it around with some old rag. Remove and replace one pad at a time, otherwise you may end up pushing a piston out on the other side…then you will most certainly need to remove calipers!
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| 2 members like this |
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| by xc68anc |
| xc68anc |
Thank you for all your help!
In Germany it‘s a little bit different. After the expierience that my ECU was lost in the german DHL „Custom Service“ for some weeks, I‘m in generell „German Angst“ about shipping some things.
Also the German dealers are a little special. I had a call to the next official dealer and ask for a call about MBS1890 „Plate brake..“ clips. No call since wednesday.
But, with luck, today I get a set of FERODO brake pads.This kit comes with a Set of split pins (Part.no. BA 0030) and anti rattle clips (Part.No. BA0037). So now a look forward to next week, I think the plywoodracer will be back on road.
Greets from Germany (always with my bad bad english)
René
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| 2 members like this |
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| by Deejay |
| Deejay |
Neville, So the brakes work and I guess it’s passed an MOT since you’ve owned it, it’s just that it’s not as effective feeling as in a Fiesta!
Before spending any more, why not try a ride or drive in a similar model. You may find “they’re all like that….”
A friendly dealer or a member of your local car club might oblige.
One other thing, have the new pads and discs been properly bedded-in since being fitted?
Find a quiet road, accelerate to about 35 mph and brake moderately down to about 5mph; do this 5 times in succession. Then speed up to about 50+ and brake hard, again repeating 5 times. Dont allow too long a gap between each test as you dont want to lose the heat. Stop, allow to cool a bit before going home.
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| 1 member likes this |
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| by DaveW |
| DaveW |
I go with Sewin. Try Greenstuff pads. And don't expect a good initial bite. My Roadster was better with original discs and Greenstuff than it was with ventilated discs and fancy Mintex. I could not get enough heat into the front, and so it squirmed until it got hot, and showed on the brake tester. Greenstuff made a huge difference with my soft braking style.
I fitted Brembo pads to my Golf and they have astonishing initial bite, but were discontinued for the ventilated discs I have, otherwise I would have tried some on my Roadster.
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| 1 member likes this |
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| by RichardV6 |
| RichardV6 |
Power assistance of brakes, deliberate or otherwise, is never too strong on a Morgan. I always remind myself when stepping from tin top to Mog of the extra force required. Obviously important they do retard car when used in anger though, to the point of locking up if no ABS.
Mixed views on the use of EBC green stuff pads although they work fine for me and show no great signs of wear after 37,000 miles.
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| by Richardllll |
| Richardllll |
Also to note.... Ford Fiestas have VERY keen brakes! Every time I get in one I brake far too hard the first few times!
On the Mintex site (Google Mintex compounds) you will see various options. You can have High or Low initial bite. But for a light car with normal road driving, you'll be best with standard ROAD pads.... ADL, Apec and the like as the TRACK pads will need heat in them.
My personal opinion though is that you just need to adjust to the car. I love the fact that Morgans drive so differently from other cars!
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| by Hamwich |
| Hamwich |
TRACK pads will need heat in them.
My personal opinion though is that you just need to adjust to the car. I love the fact that Morgans drive so differently from other cars! Yep, I really don't understand why anyone would think that making a road car anything like a race car would be a good idea, and this especially applies to brakes. On a race car if you aren't hard on the throttle you are hard on the brakes, and your brake discs are absolutely red hot nearly all the time. If they aren't, you aren't going fast enough. On a road car however your brakes are stone cold nearly all the time and are only occasionally used to steady the car entering a bend. You need an entirely different pad compound for the two scenarios. Morgan Trad braking characteristics are anyway very different from 'normal' tin tops, not least because of the lower CofG and the almost total lack of nose dive due to the sliding pillar front end.
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| 1 member likes this |
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| by Deejay |
| Deejay |
Hello Doug,
thank you for the fast answer. But too late. I thought it would be a good idea to undo the calipers for a better clean/ „degreasing“. And also: oh, such big calipers - there must be big pads in it for a massive brakepower. In Germany you sometimes say: „Überlasse das Denken den Kühen, die haben einen größeren Kopf“ (something like: let a cow do the thinking, they have bigger heads).
So now, the calipers are secured at the MOG and must be screwed on. But there is also the point: can I reuse the dumbell pins? Or can/must I fit the splines which comes with the pads?
As all the time: sorry about my bad english.
Greets René New pads usually come with “split pins” (splines??) but for a Morgan, just use the original dumbell pins. If they did not come with new anti-rattle clips, inspect the old ones before re-using in case of rust or damage when they were removed. As far as torque is concerned, I have no idea, and cannot find any Morgan specification. Do it up tight! (Sorry about my German…non-ex istent! 😵💫)
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| by +8Rich |
| +8Rich |
Rene, It is a personal thing I didn't refit the original dumbell pins as I didn't like the arrangement at all. I bought stainless bolts and lock nuts to fit - cut the bolts to match the length and that way I was happier and engineering wise it was a better solution for me. This also made it easier in the future for pad changes. You can buy the dumbell pins and rattle plates separately if you want to restore the car as it was from Caparo. Good luck with your decision, the split pins you have would be plenty good enough if they are a good fit and long enough. From a South Devon Red cow  p.s. Cross posted with Doug
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| by CooperMan |
| CooperMan |
Rene, these photos may be helpful before you strip down this shows the dumbell pins installed with the retaining spring steel retainers ![[Linked Image]](https://www.tm-img.com/images/2022/08/01/Front-brakes-8.jpg) Note, I have found that the spring steel retainers tend to loose their 'spring', you can see the difference here, this could lead to the pins wriggling free Richard's comment about going back to normal split pins is valid and I may well do the same at the next brake check and clean day ![[Linked Image]](https://www.tm-img.com/images/2022/08/01/Pad-clips.jpg)
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| by Deejay |
| Deejay |
I always use a smear of Ceratec on pad backplate and pins. Using a flat blade screwdriver to push down on centre of each pad spring, to take pressure off pins, you should be able to push latter out by hand aided by a suitable size drift. Yes, so do I but, beware of putting Ceretec on rubber brake components as it is mineral oil based and can degrade the rubber. Red rubber grease is best for that purpose.
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| 1 member likes this |
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| by RichardV6 |
| RichardV6 |
I always use a smear of Ceratec on pad backplate and pins. Using a flat blade screwdriver to push down on centre of each pad spring, to take pressure off pins, you should be able to push latter out by hand aided by a suitable size drift.
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| 1 member likes this |
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| by RichardV6 |
| RichardV6 |
I've seen split pins shown as being supplied with pads but not fit for purpose IMHO. I notice that many Morgan compatible pads, including EBC ones, are now supplied fitted with triple spring clips on the backplate. Presumably they clip to the caliper piston as a means of reducing brake squeal, pad chatter or whatever 
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