Robbie,
Its a straightforward job - your roadster is probably very similar to the 4/4.
Jack up and support front on axle stands to give you room beneath rad.
Remove the chrome grill assembly from beneath and held in place by just four bolts. It accommodates the twin horns which need disconnecting. Withdraw it downwards. Remove the coolant hoses. The cradle which supports the old rad is unbolted.
Your new Mulfab or Mulberry (same difference) comes complete with twin support brackets that support the lower corners, and a long top bar brace* and bracket which bolts through from beneath the wings and attaches to the top of the alloy rad.
Juggle the rad about so its sits stress free and tighten fixings gradually by alternating one side to the other.
The top bar brace* has inner bolts and outer bolts that clamp onto the wings. Ensure that the inner pair are spaced to match the distance between the wings so that tightening does not draw the wings together.
That's almost entirely wrong...
The S1 Roadster radiator is virtually identical to the preceding + 8 Radiator, and is not the plastic tanked later version.
The radiator is removed from below. The cowl and the cowl box do not need to be removed, although if your car has a riveted plastic under tray, then this needs the rivets drilling out and the tray discarding as the new radiator is longer
Jack up and support the front of the car. Drain the coolant, some but not all the radiators have a drain tap in the bottom, disconnect the top and bottom coolant hoses from the radiator, fan wiring etc
To gain a little extra space to help removal, undo the centre track rod bushes from the steering rack and swing the track rods out of the way.
Undo the top and bottom radiator bobbins (3 points) and then loosen the radiator mounts where they are bolted to the front crossframe
The mounts can then be swung aside slightly and then the radiator will "wiggle" out from underneath
Fitting the new radiator is the reverse of the above, although the points made about allowing the radiator to sit unstressed are very valid. It is often worth drilling the top holes on the mounting brackets where they bolt to the crossframe slightly oversize (circa 9mm) to allow a bit of adjustment
You will also note that there is no longer a filler neck on the radiator, the entire cooling system is filled from the bulkhead mounted header tank
Don't be tempted to mix coolant types when refilling the coolant system. The various types of long life coolant are incompatible with each other and can gel or crystallise if mixed.
I have aluminium radiators to suit the S1 Roadster on the shelf. SiFab radiators come complete with new mounting bobbins, new stainless steel hose clips and any other parts necessary to fit.
There are also made from a stronger aluminium alloy than the Mulfab radiators, and come with a 2 year no quibble full replacement warranty
Simon @ SiFab.co.uk
