So easy to become confused with all this chat...
Best not to think of alternative brake fluids, stick to manufacturers specifications.
The days of owners modifying modern Morgans is fast disappearing along with the generation of baby boomers who thought modifying their Morgans to "improve" them was very much a part of the Morganeers culture.
Part of the modification culture seemed to be based upon bragging rights as opposed to actual driver demands on the vehicle... Racing spec anything incorporated into a road car can create a pig of a machine to spend time in when in traffic.
Morgans are light vehicles and unless driven hard will take a while to get race spec pads up to their best operating temperature on the road..if ever..?
I have no idea as to which type of ABS system might be fitted to any Morgan.
Either long travel or soft pedal would seem to go against normal driver expectations. If a soft pedal is combined with poor retardation performance on the road, I would have to understand why this could occur and exactly what caused it, also what repair techniques were involved to resolve the issue...
With brakes being the primary safety system on any car my expectation would be that even in a situation of total electrical or ECU failure that the hydraulic aspects of the system would provide "reasonable" retardation effect. Though logic determines that on an electrical system failure, an electrically operated handbrake activation may be lost..! Worth looking into the design of that..?
I suspect that any MOT equipped garage could take no more than 15 minutes to check the efficiency of braking on each wheel for you, including handbrake performance, for a reasonable cost. No need to wait till an MOT is due.
A lot of sense there George!
It would be interesting to know from those who have long pedal travel, whether that shortens if the brakes are pumped repeatedly. If so, I would look to re - bleed. Just because it’s been done during recent factory recall, doesn’t guarantee it was done successfully. (due to time pressures etc)?
Deejay, thanks for commenting. Had I that degree of sense in my yoof, I would have saved a lot of cash spent on modifications that demanded further modifications and ultimately threw many a practical machine out of balance and made it a pig to ride/drive except when operating the very narrow window of performance I had created.... and that I did so man more times than once....
Dave, in my limited experience air in the system is usually associated with leakage, or may be found when the system requires bleeding after having work carried out on it and not being properly bled.... For sure some machines can be far more ackward to bleed than others..
The soft pedal that can be realy scary, is the one where as an example... After lay-up, where a caliper may have partially seized and is holding a pad or pads against the disc to the extent it is no more than rubbing, perhaps not in any way first noticed when one fires up the Mog to head out for that first run in the sun, brake pedal feel s fine, brakes seem to be working well, then after a few miles, the pedal hits the carpet under braking.... The rubbing pad has heated the caliper and disk and in the process boiled the fluid, which can manage in a shorter period of time if the fluid has not been changed as recommended, and as a result has a high water content, the water boiling at a lower temperature than good condition brake fluidwould ever do so...?
As always just thinking in type..
