Richard,
The SSL RS system from Dan is undoubtedly the optimum choice and hard to argue that it can be bettered if retaining a sliding pillar system, so then I'm in total agreement with you that its possible to tune in a sweet spot with an adjustable shock. but that will and can only be a personal opinion. And as I had said the SSL 5 point or the MMC version again achieves the best option available for fine tuning. Here I was trying to show a more reasonable price option can be found for the middle of the road user.
The conical washers accommodating camber adjustment I feel are absolutely best fitted after the angle has been set at the top of the pin and especially as most new stays come with the reinforcing washer added and the flex at the flat folded end of the stay offers little resistance to being bolted down and won't compromise the patency of the conical washers in that position so we will just have to hold to our different views on that one.
For every action there is an opposite and equal reaction, so when the flex occurs at the cross head tubes although putting a rotational force in place which wants to move the outer top tube forward the return force is mostly equal so in a situation where a driver is pushing the car between extreme braking and acceleration it follows that there will be a compressional force applied to the stay as without damping it cannot be a tie rod in isolation. Otherwise why would one be required to take the moments around such bracing in say bridge design, making sure it won't fall down that is, or fail through fatigue.
The shock absorbers available for the Morgan are all really very weak in action, somewhat akin to the resistance/return action of an average steering damper. Given to most mechanics even when new they would tell you that it's faulty so disregarding my views on the rear shocks re. adjustment I still stand by my view for the front option.
Bringing the stay on the chassis closer to the cross head by positioning above the conical washer set you infer making it less effective, I totally disagree with, that. It moves it forward by about 8mm and with the forces involved I can't quite see the level of efficiency that could be lost. However one thing it does achieve especially if you grind a relief angle at the chassis end to fit the the stay as close to the vertical chassis member as possible is to align it with the factory chassis relief for full lock steering thus preventing the tyre fouling it.
For my final thought, anyone wishing to spend the large amount of cash that a fully fitted SSL system front and back costs, especially if you can't fit it yourself! , Here my suggestion would be to change the front suspension out to wishbones as without that change you really wont get the drive you are after
