HI All,
I added an elastic band to the Valve lever to keep it more firmly closed and retested.
It made little difference!
The difference between Entry and Cabin temps show that the heater box is warming up the air a minimum of 6 degrees and when passing the air over the Hot part adds another 3 degrees.
The Entry temp is by far the biggest issue still, it increased steadily through the testing and It increased faster when the Fan was switched on, so pulling hot air into the box from the engine bay.
I had assumed the remaining heating of the air was from the Hot Water going through the heater matrix. I now think the Bypass has reduced this and now adds only a few degrees.
The much bigger issue is the very high temp of the Engine Bay, after the test I opened the bonnet and burnt my fingers on the stays!. This sort of temp has a few impacts
- It warms the whole Heater Box.
- It warms the Hoses going to/from the Heater Box and therefore the water within.
- It passes hot air into the Heater box through any gaps in the foam around the top and through 6x drain holes that exit in the Engine Bay.
Hi Peter, I accept that while the car is moving the results would be very different, but you also have the ability to get air into the cabin by putting the hood down or opening a window. The only time I really needed some fresh air in the cabin was while stuck in standing traffic so that's what I'm trying to simulate.
I have got to a point where I think it's impossible to get Ambient air into the Cabin through the Heater Box while stationary.
Rogers idea makes sense, extract the warm air from the Cabin, as long as it's not replaced via the Heater Box it should work. Something to work on another time perhaps.
