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Button #416918 23/12/16 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted By Button
Originally Posted By Arwyn Williams
Well lubricated stainless steel fasteners (both on assembly and removal) and properly lined up fixing holes make the cowl removal and replacement a doddle.

When I rebuilt the 4/4 I spent quite a bit of time getting the cowl set up correctly so it could be easily removed and replaced before I painted the car.

Following on from Buttons suggestion. I used long 2BA stainless set screws with a hex head where space was limited so I could put a ring spanner on them, I used ordinary dome headed screws for the rest of the cowl

Arwyn


2BA????????? I use 10-24 Allen Head screws and nylock nuts. I braze a Allen Wrench into the Allen Head. Use 1/4" air ratchet wrench and very long extension. BTW: Cut the allen wrench so it does not stick up too far. With 3 Morgans I am constantly in one cowl or the other. This makes it easy - err easier.


BTW: If You do not braze, try "JB Weld" I have used that and so far it works OK.


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Button - only used 2BA as I've got access to buckets of the things courtesy of a local miltary surplus dealer I know! Sells the things by the pound weight rather individually!

I've access to brazing and silver soldering gear! I make a hefty payment to BOC for the privilege!

Arwyn

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on a 50 year old car I don't attempt to remove nuts and bolts I grind them off and replace with new stainless steel ones

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Originally Posted By Arwyn Williams
only used 2BA as I've got access to buckets of the things courtesy of a local miltary surplus dealer I know! Sells the things by the pound weight rather individually!

2BA is the size of choice for Signalling terminal blocks.


Best Regards
Lang may yer lum reek
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I've made an investment in 3 Ali rads, my elise 3 years ago, my 81 caterham 7 12 years ago and my 2011 +4 18months ago. The +4 rad was from Mulfab and was the best part £650 but it should last a "lifetime". The caterham 7 rad is still going strong after 12 years, I think Ali is the way to go for these "kit cars" since whoever the manufacturer uses they do not appear to be manufactured to to the standard of say vw or bmw plastic rads from which I have had upto 14 years trouble free service before selling the cars on. A new caterham that I owned in 2007 had 2 rads under warrenty and my 2011 +4 rad was showing signs of leakage in 2015 hence the investment in a mulfab rad. Change out was pretty straightforward with front raised the rad' dropped out the bottom and the new rad went in from the bottom.

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thanks for all the input and Merry Christmas

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Bog standard saloons don't have to cope with anywhere near the amount of flexion the Mog has to - they probably should have rubber radiators! (I know I know wink)

The Ali condenser on my smart Roadster fall to bits with corrosion about every 5 years, that little car has done almost 170,000 miles though throughout nasty salty winters and is no where near as pampered as an average Mog, it was almost a sacrificial anode to the coolant radiator.


Mark - No Longer driving
Archie the Old English Sheep Mog...........
2010 Roadster 3.0 V6 (S3) wink
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Originally Posted By pcyrgalis
on a 50 year old car I don't attempt to remove nuts and bolts I grind them off and replace with new stainless steel ones


My Makita Angle Grinder is My most useful wrench. It also has put Me in the Emergency Room. Be sure to take off the Guard for maximum effectiveness.


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Button #417330 24/12/16 09:19 PM
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good advice

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