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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Originally Posted by WilsonLaidlaw
...I wonder if the solution to the loosening nut, might be to mount the PB compensator on the spline using Loctite 660. ...
Wilson

Looks interesting! https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_660.html


M3W5sp 2015, MSCC, MTWC, Oxon UK
Laurens #748564 18/07/22 09:24 PM
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P
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If you ever need to get the hub off the crank again you may well find loctiting the splines is not such a good idea after all.


PaulR

PaulR #748579 19/07/22 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by PaulR
If you ever need to get the hub off the crank again you may well find loctiting the splines is not such a good idea after all.
That was my initial thought too. Loctite 660 might be useful stuff for attaching Traven steering wheel quick releases though? oops


Andy
planenut #748581 19/07/22 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by planenut

I also wire locked the full size crank nut to the crank on assembly, I like positive locking.





Ian's solution seems to be ideal to me, locked but still removable. Anyone have any thoughts to why this shouldn't be done?

Laurens #748633 19/07/22 11:18 AM
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[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
Every time I recoupled the crankshaft I tightened it to 27 mkg I always removed the toothed washer and glued the nut with Loctite 270 I generally fit the splines with silicone sealant, the engine which has more than 100000km has its splines in perfect condition, only once I reassembled it with Loctite 660 and for that I made an extractor in anticipation of dismantling, I had to heat it to around 100°C to extract it difficult with my extractor.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Laurens #748635 19/07/22 11:33 AM
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For a few years I have managed to find a Belleville conical spring washer with a thickness of no less than 3 mm to replace the flat washer and it seems perfect to me.

Laurens #748646 19/07/22 01:34 PM
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The data sheet for Loctite 660 says to heat the joint to 260c and disassemble.... possibly easier to say than do? The wire locking of the crank nut is a positive lock but it may still be pulled and break if there is enough movement I suppose, much like Wilson's Ralt. I would be tempted to use the 660 and improve the chances of it all staying together and worry about taking it apart if and when that happens. Nice puller GLLOQ !

Laurens #748647 19/07/22 01:38 PM
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After checking the thickness of the washer is 4 mm, I noticed that when tightening it takes at least 20 mkg to crush it flat, the washer is Mubea brand, I enlarged the washer internally to 7 /8 or 22.225 mm.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Laurens #748649 19/07/22 01:47 PM
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With this weather the rental price of the extractor has increased (two packs of light beers) or even more if the temperature rises. laugh2

PeterG #748663 19/07/22 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterG

I know PB doesn't like threadlock etc,


I've just re-watched Phil's video and although he doesn't show it he does say that for his final assembly of the splined flange onto the crankshaft he used Loctite and a washer.

I also think Laurens makes an excellent point about how the half nut, star washer and flat washer would work, I particularly like the idea that the flat washer isolates the nut from the hammering effect of the splines. If the flat washer does not spin then the star washer would lock the half nut to a fixed surface so nothing should come loose. Perhaps this is the way forward,aided by a dose of Loctite 660 as well?


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