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Yes I installed ours as I was trying to get it done before we went to Grindelwald last summer and Craig was flat out with other work.

The whole process is helped by having an engine crane to support the weight of the engine using a brace between the big bolts on the top.

You also have to factor in that the regulator needs to be moved - a good opportunity to move it to the front of the boywork where it gets less exposure to vibration. @Bunny gave some guidance on how/where to do this in a post a year or so ago. (https://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/782035/re-voltage-question#Post782035)

Getting the OEM mounts out is fiddly as lots of things get in the way esp if you have big hands(!) - various bits of wiring harness need to be unclipped - and each mount only comes out in a particular way. It helped a lot that I had had the engine out a year or two before to do the Bleazey Centa conversion and so Phil's video gives some hints on getting the old mounts out.

After that, installation of the new mounts went OK.

In summary, yes you can do it yourself!

Last edited by JMD; 05/06/25 07:29 AM.
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JMD…Thanks for the first hand report on self installation! Quick question….where/what on the engine did you attach the crane? I was also considering supporting from several points beneath the engine using screw type bottle jacks once I have it up about about 8-10 inches on jack stands. Has anyone done it this way?

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I made this modification too before the Moroccan tour, and we are very happy with the improvement. As many said here before, the vibrations are dramatically reduced, which in a Morgan means excellent news!

Now we won't have so many nuts and rivets coming loose and all the electronics will suffer much less.

Last edited by Marmota; 05/06/25 10:02 PM.

Javier - Madrid, Spain - Commander of Speedy Marmots Bomb Squadron
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Originally Posted by Marmota
I made this modification too before the Moroccan tour, and we are very happy with the improvement. As many said here before, the vibrations are dramatically reduced, which in a Morgan means excellent news!

Now we won't have so many nuts and rivets coming loose and all the electronics will suffer much less.

Warning for the Euro4 folks out there: yes you must change the location of your regulator, but for extraterrestrial reasons we didn't manage to understand yet, you must keep the original Morgan regulator, as the Harley Davidson combined with the new mounting kit, implies losing the rev counter. Yes, I know it sounds weird. But its an electronic mistery we haven't solved yet.
Euro 4 3-wheelers are equipped with a regulator on the engine, as is the HARLEY rectifier. This blocks the current flowing to the tachometer.
The stock rectifier, combined with the engine regulator, is much less prone to failure.

Last edited by gaston; 05/06/25 07:38 PM.
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Originally Posted by Will Stotts
JMD…Thanks for the first hand report on self installation! Quick question….where/what on the engine did you attach the crane? I was also considering supporting from several points beneath the engine using screw type bottle jacks once I have it up about about 8-10 inches on jack stands. Has anyone done it this way?

If you look at the literature on the S&S X-Wedge, there is provision for a top mount for use in a bike frame. On the M3W, these are unused and often hidden under the fan cowl. A couple of chunky bolts into the cyliner head doing very little in our application. I made a simple metal strat to go between the two with a hoop for the engine crane hook. See Phil B's video on engine removal (
) at around 30 mins for an example.

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I have the installation guide from Chris. I am also waiting on pictures from him of the rectifier relocation before purchasing...sounds very nice!

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Last edited by AZJowett; 07/06/25 10:19 PM.

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Here are some notes I made when relocating my H-D rectifier.

[Linked Image]

There are a couple of photos in this THREAD


Andy
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