Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 M3W Services motor mounts

Yes I installed ours as I was trying to get it done before we went to Grindelwald last summer and Craig was flat out with other work.

The whole process is helped by having an engine crane to support the weight of the engine using a brace between the big bolts on the top.

You also have to factor in that the regulator needs to be moved - a good opportunity to move it to the front of the boywork where it gets less exposure to vibration. @Bunny gave some guidance on how/where to do this in a post a year or so ago. (https://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/782035/re-voltage-question#Post782035)

Getting the OEM mounts out is fiddly as lots of things get in the way esp if you have big hands(!) - various bits of wiring harness need to be unclipped - and each mount only comes out in a particular way. It helped a lot that I had had the engine out a year or two before to do the Bleazey Centa conversion and so Phil's video gives some hints on getting the old mounts out.

After that, installation of the new mounts went OK.

In summary, yes you can do it yourself!

JMD…Thanks for the first hand report on self installation! Quick question….where/what on the engine did you attach the crane? I was also considering supporting from several points beneath the engine using screw type bottle jacks once I have it up about about 8-10 inches on jack stands. Has anyone done it this way?

I made this modification too before the Moroccan tour, and we are very happy with the improvement. As many said here before, the vibrations are dramatically reduced, which in a Morgan means excellent news!

Now we won't have so many nuts and rivets coming loose and all the electronics will suffer much less.

Euro 4 3-wheelers are equipped with a regulator on the engine, as is the HARLEY rectifier. This blocks the current flowing to the tachometer.
The stock rectifier, combined with the engine regulator, is much less prone to failure.

If you look at the literature on the S&S X-Wedge, there is provision for a top mount for use in a bike frame. On the M3W, these are unused and often hidden under the fan cowl. A couple of chunky bolts into the cyliner head doing very little in our application. I made a simple metal strat to go between the two with a hoop for the engine crane hook. See Phil B's video on engine removal () at around 30 mins for an example.

I have the installation guide from Chris. I am also waiting on pictures from him of the rectifier relocation before purchasing...sounds very nice!

Here are some notes I made when relocating my H-D rectifier.



There are a couple of photos in this THREAD

I just completed the installation of the M3W Services motor mounts. It's some work, but not too bad for us Morgan hands-on folks :-) I edited and expanded the instructions I received from Craig at M3W Services. I'd say the change is amazing - along the lines of the Ohlin's upgrade I did a few years back. The mirrors are actually somewhat useful now - who would have believed that!

In any event, here are my updated and illustrated install instructions - along with my approach to re-locating the regulator.

--------------------------

M3W Vibeater Engine Mounts Fitting
Fitting Notes V1 (revised and expanded 7/24/25 DEL)

1. Note – all references to Left and Right are from the driver’s perspective.

2. I put the car up on ramps before starting this - it is much easier to work under the engine and way easier on your back. Remove the bonnet and disconnect the negative battery terminal.



3. Check the current vertical position of the engine against a frame point. Easy way is to measure from the bottom of the cam chest to a marked position on the front cross-member and make a mark and note the dimension. You need to compare later with the vertical position.



4. Support engine under a strong point – the bell housing joint or you could use a hoist. With the car on ramps, the floor jack can be brought in from the side so it’s not in your way from the front.

5. Remove existing mounts and regulator. Start with the regulator and the support bracket on the left side. Unplug the regulator connector under the engine. Remove the mounting nuts for the 3 regulator isolators. Remove the regulator support bracket to the frame - 3 10mm bolts. Removing the mounts – for each side, 3 socket-head bolts in the rear, 2 through the crankcase, and 2 through the F & R support bushings. Note that the bolts through the crankcase are NOT the same left and right – keep them sorted. Note that each bolt has a washer under it on the crankcase side. Getting the mounts out is a bit of a Tetris challenge! If you’re planning on changing the oil, removing the oil filter will make it much easier on the left side. The right side isn’t too bad, but the left side is a bear. You have to get the mount vertical, then rotate it 180-degrees then slip out to the rear. Moving the engine up and to the right side helps – use a pry bar. It’s very tight but they will come out. These are what you’re trying to get removed:



6. Fit new top mounts with spacers (total 65mm wide) and m10 x 90mm bolts. (Note the counter-sunk bolt position, it’s the top bolt). Fasten to crankcases with existing bolts and nuts. Use dab of blue Loctite on m10 threads to bell housing when ready to do final assembly. CAUTION – if you have the engine raised-up, the head of the counter-sunk bolt will bind on the frame – pay attention, you may need to lower the engine a bit to get it to clear as you run it in.

7. Offer up rubber hydraulic mount to regulator side position and establish if existing chassis regulator mounting tab needs trimming-off at bottom to clear rubber by say 6mm plus. The interference is with the mounting stud and nut at the bottom of the mount. What needs to be cut is the rear half of the horizontal regulator mounting tab on the bottom frame tube. I used a cut-off wheel in a grinder then filed it smooth and hit it with a bit of black paint. The upright mounting tab does not need any modification.



8. Fit bottom mounts using existing chassis nuts and bolts. The rubber bushes in these new mounts can moved back and forth with hammer taps to adjust to chassis lugs position if necessary. It worked best for me to install the new hydraulic mounts loosely on the bottom mount brackets before installing them. Leave the mount a bit loose in the bracket to enable it to align back and forth. Pay attention to how the mount is installed – it will only go one way. There is VERY little space between the mount and the front chassis nut and washer – leaving the mount loose will help a great deal in starting the nut on the front chassis through-bolt – there is very little space between the nut ant the bottom of the mount.

9. Fit rubber hydraulic mounts, the supplied 6mm alloy spacer may need to be on mount top to get engine at similar height as before, release jack to check as rubber mounts will settle under the weight. In my case, the engine ended up right at the same height as before, so no spacers were needed to get proper height.

10. Before tightening things up, install the rubber side bumpers in the left and right lower mount brackets. Use a pry bar to move the engine to the right to get the space to install the left side, then use a pry-bar to move the engine to the left to get enough room to install the right side. It’s a bit fiddly. These bumpers are intended to prevent excessive side-to-side engine movement.



11. Fit V shaped locking plate with M6 screws and tighten main M10 mount nuts

12. Do not tighten the lower mount chassis bolts until the hydraulic mounts are centered and tightened – this to avoid having the lower mounts cocked or angled in the frame. You want them centered under the hydraulic mounts, then tighten the front and rear chassis bolts.

13. Fit regulator in desired position. In my case, I re-used the original regulator mounting plate and attached it to the side of the lower engine mount bracket on the left side. I drilled 2 holes in the left lower engine mount bracket and one in the mounting plate. I re-used one existing hole in the mounting plate. I had to grind the front weld on the outside of the left lower mount bracket so that the regulator bracket would bolt-up flush with the mount. This avoided having to relocate the regulator and deal with wiring as all the stock wiring will fit-up just fine.



14. I ran the original ground wire from the regulator mounting plate to the left engine mount locking plate, and installed a new ground wire from the regulator mounting plate to the coil mounting bracket under the bonnet.

15. Tidy-up the wiring on the left and the oil lines on the right with some good zip ties and/or cable clamps.





16. Road test and then check all bolts nuts for tightness including bell housing ones

17. Check that no oil, fuel, or wiring are chaffing or knocking on engine when running. Fuel pipes can rub through on bottom area edge of the fan housing even if fitted with the standard mounts. This area can be cut right away with a fret saw. Plus - ACF50 in new mounts nooks and crannies is a good idea

Completed project:

Couple of points:

The existing vertical rectifier tab normally needs removal or at least half of it - depends on what/how the factory (or dealer) had welded in place - otherwise it fouls the upper rubber part.

Rectifier position - the stock wiring will fit if the rectifier is mounted on the body as per Bunny instructions - but if using the std MMC rectifier then you need to adapt the plate and get rid of the bobbins so it mounts near flush to bodywork. Only cause for concern when mounting the rectifier to the bottom engine mount bracket as you have, is that it will still vibrate a little more than direct chassis fix and as we all know vibrations kill these rectifiers. Therefore by taking the vibrations out of the equation then the rectifiers will hopefully last longer, hence why all the mounts fitted by me are mounted to the body.
Unless your a Euro 4 car - upgrade rectifier to HD version if funds allow.

Also - the alloy spacers - regardless of engine height - you need to try different amounts either side - the rear cylinder side will always need 1 x as a minimum - the other side rarely. Check clearance on rear cylinder/frame - steering rack/chassis and starter motor/tunnel. Every chassis has different measurements

Glad to see you notice the difference in driving experience as everyone who has had it fitted makes the same remarks.

Big thanks to Paul Rand (ex 5 speeder and ex S3 owner) who designed and developed this kit 4/5 years ago and then when I fitted it to mine 2/3 years ago, I was so impressed with the vibration reduction that thought it would be good to make it available to a much wider audience, so in association with Paul, I made a few tweaks to the design for ease of installation and now its a highly recommended upgrade fitted to numerous m3w's in EU, UK and now USA