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Joined: Oct 2019
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To focus my mind on this ... has anyone actually lost a wheel?

On one memorable trip in the early '70s in my mate's Triumph Spitfire we lost two wheels in the space of 35 miles ... though to be fair he was an impecunious student who didn't have the cash to be running a sportscar and the hub splines were non existent so not really a fair example (you could also watch the road going by between your feet through the dinner-plate sized holes in the floor pan! ) 🙂

K

Joined: May 2012
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Rog Offline
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Here’s a nice little battle scar. Even the pro’s that change spinners every day of the week have the occasional oops!

[Linked Image]

Most probably the result of the edge of a well-worn steel bodied mallet making contact stars

So, if your weapon of choice is a mallet, maybe get a nice heavy lead only jobby and beware of those 600g toys that come with the cars grin2

[Linked Image]


Roger
2011 Plus 4
Joined: Feb 2016
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Needs to Get Out More!
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That hammer was removed from my carry aboard kit as soon as I bought car and replaced with MG style eared spinner remover. Back in my garage I tighten with only 600mm breaker bar.


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
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M
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M
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Here's my solution....

[Linked Image]

It's just the standard nut spanner, but with a meaty strike face welded on to it.

I strike it with this nylon coated 3lb Sealey dead blow hammer (S0545), which I can't overstate enough is an absolute game changer!

[Linked Image]

The combination of the two is perfect, a solid and broad striking face paired with the zero bounce effect from the dead blow hammer works brilliantly, the significant additional weight of the adapted nut spanner helps too, and because the dead blow hammer is nylon coated if you do suffer a miss-strike you're way less likely to cause any damage.

I do have a Lionel nut socket that I use with a telescopic and ratcheting breaker bar, but since moving to the above setup I now only use this combo for spare wheel removal, I adapted my T bar by replacing the T with another brass wheel nut so it takes a lot of turns to remove the spare.

[Linked Image]

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G
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G
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Originally Posted by Montegue
I strike it with this nylon coated 3lb Sealey dead blow hammer (S0545), which I can't overstate enough is an absolute game changer!

I love those hammers!

But, forgive me, have you ever tested the resultant torque with your method? It would illustrate an important point.

L.

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M
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I'm old skool Lorn

The shock tightening method has always worked for me, experience teaches you to judge the feel of a properly tightened spinner/hex nut.

We used to call this torque setting FT, some of you may even know what those two letters stand for wink

There's no torque wrench for me when it comes to Morgan wheel tightening, I save that tool for engine building thumbs

Joined: Mar 2010
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Moderate or good, occasionally poor
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Talk Morgan Addict
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Originally Posted by Montegue
...I do have a Lionel nut socket that I use with a telescopic and ratcheting breaker bar, but since moving to the above setup I now only use this combo for spare wheel removal, I adapted my T bar by replacing the T with another brass wheel nut so it takes a lot of turns to remove the spare.

[Linked Image]

That's an interesting idea. Did you do that as a theft deterrent or purely for the aesthetics? It would be interesting to see how that looks on the car.


2011 Morgan 4/4
1932 Austin 7 Chummy
Joined: May 2010
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S
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S
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That hubnut for the spare looks good. I am tempted.....just need a good welder.


Plus Four MY23 Furka Rouge
Joined: May 2012
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Rog Offline
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You don’t need a welder for these smile

[Linked Image]

An aesthetic version and a theft deterrent version.


Roger
2011 Plus 4
Joined: Nov 2015
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Just barreling along
Needs to Get Out More!
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Needs to Get Out More!
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This is my anti theft for touring, stops the luggage rack or spare being messed with by the addition of a HT stud and locking wheel nut

[Linked Image]


Jon M
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