Along these lines and maybe I missed the post if so, but has anyone else used an infrared thermometer on their bevel box after a spirited run?
Before replacing the bevel box goo, my BB was running 240F degrees....the bottom end of the S&S was 220F degrees. After several BB flushings, I've run RedLine gear lube and RedLine Shockproof. My box temp goes down to around 160F degrees after a lube change but after a couple of hundred miles of use, it starts creeping back up to 180F-ish when I dump and change again. Though a drop from 240 to 160 is significant, 160F still seems too hot for what the box is doing. At 160F, you can't keep your hand on the box but for a split second. Parallel to all this, I test drove a SlingShot for about 40 miles running it hard (it was a demo) and immediately after the drive, I could put my hand on the box and keep it there as long as I wanted.

I've read here where it was mentioned that since the SlingShot box is bigger, it acts as a bigger heat sink...I'm not buying that. Any shaft-driven motorcycle is doing the same job, is much smaller than the BB and they don't get smoking hot.
Again, mine was a "goo" model Bevel Box. Those that were never subjected to that screw up may run much cooler and why I was curious of others had measured their box temps.
I am tempted to add molybdenum to my "bad" bevel box before I pull it just to see if it alters the heat characteristics of the box since I already have a new box due to be delivered Friday. I have a Moto Guzzi motorcycle where they recommend the addition of moly to the final drive and have for years. I've got a bottle on the shelf and feel like it is worth a try. Any port in the storm.
Z