I've done this job twice before. First on my Roadster when I changed the kingpins way back........scroll right to the end to get the reposted images!
http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/55092/4Then I did it again when I changed the kingpins on my 4/4 Anniversary........and got better at it!!!! Scroll right to the end to get the reposted images!
http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/228294/4This time it would be a breeze, as the kingpins are OK!!!!!!
The order I do this in, after jacking up and securing safely is...........
Remove two caliper securing bolts.....19mm, and hang caliper from frame using a cable tie. I leave the pads in place, they don't go anywhere.
Remove the disc and hub......first straighten the split pin, and remove through the hole in the splines. Remove the nut.....which is 1 & 3/16ths AF.........
This time I put a rubber glove over the hub splines, which worked very well. The stamped washer and outer race usually fall out of the hub at this point and the glove keeps them clean.
Remove the damper. Upper nut is 17mm. The damper shaft has either an allen key (female) or a male 'slot'. The Spax have a 3/16" male slot which takes an open ender. The damper lower nut is 14mm. Each fixing has the usual washers and rubber bushes.
The track rod end is a 14mm, and I use a simple splitter which does the job easily.
The lower plate fasteners are 1/2" AF and the lower kingpin nut is 3/4" AF.
So.....................
My gaiters have kept everything clean down here................
The factory bearing is black and just below centre here........
The hub nut with factory red paint evident........
The components are not painted from new, it's like a passive layer of rust..........I don't go to too much trouble, just rub off the powdery stuff, and apply ....this time....caliper paint.
Then I get the studding out and start to wind down the springs...........
With everything out of the way, I give a good squirt of Tectyl 506 into the cross tubes.
Continued....................>>>>>>>>
