One thing for sure is that by the time you get this old crate up and running you will be confident to drive it anywhere...(-:

If you did not get any f*rts, pops, bangs or flames with easy start I suspect best to get back to basics..? If you are happy you have regular sparks, and the ignition leads in the correct order on the dizzy, and connected to the appropriate plugs on the engine, then the logical (?) next step is the timing of the sparks.

To ensure the spark arrives at the correct time at the appropriate cylinder is key. Both he rotor arm and contact breakers work in unison to achieve that end, in that as the lobe in the dizzy cam JUST breaks the connection between the two points... the coil generates the HT (high voltage).... which enters the dizzy via the central connection on the top of the cap and from there passes down through the cap and makes contact with the centre contact point of the rotor arm.... The HT then travels along the rotor arm and jumps the gap to the nearest metal segment on the inside of the dizzy cap, the external connection of which then passes the HT to the HT lead and on to the appropriate spark plug...on the.. Assumption... that lead is connected to the appropriate cylinder. As you have a workshop manual available hopefully there may be a pic relating to rotor arm alignment..?

For all the above to occur at precisely the correct fraction in time as part of the timing process, checking the rotor arm position is critical, as who knows if the dizzy body has been removed from the engine and replaced incorrectly... Assuming the engine ever ran as it currently sits seems less than wise.. Unless you KNOW it did..?

A quick check is possible if you remove the spark plug of any easily accessible cylinder have the spark plug held or connected to earth in order that you can view it sparking and place a finger over the spark plug hole... the plug should spark when you feel the blast of air exiting the engine which will be produced as you spin the engine over on the starter...

Should you find the spark does not fire at the appropriate time... then "assuming" it did spark, your timing is out for one or other reason.... Again assuming the plugs are not fouled with the oil you put down the cylinders in the earlier stages of your investigations..?

With the above you should have hopefully advanced your understanding of the process a bit...?

I apologise if you are way ahead of my line of thought. Being a slow thinker it is just that I tend to need to build on the basics in the hope of gaining a degree of understanding.