Hi Guys, some of you may remember that I am on my 2nd Three Wheeler. The first one, made in May 2012, did have problems with the fenders hitting the headers on full lock, the current one, made exactly a year later doesn't. I have put that down to the fact that there are slightly larger spacers on the steering rack. If you take the rubber gator off the rack, you will see a plastic spacer, which is there to stop the fenders getting too close to the exhaust on full lock. If you find it a nuisance, just use a thicker spacer.
Paul, that's a clever way to stop the rack and pinion stroke.
But with most engineered steering systems, the steering stop is mounted on the "A" arm so the spindle hits it at full lock on an inside turn. On some aftermarket suspensions this stop is adjustable to set the turning angle full stop. The steering box will only go so far until the spindle hits the solid stop; no need for an internal steering mechanism stop.
I believe the reasoning is that when the inside wheel is turned that far, the steering arm on the spindle and the steering rod link comes closer to a straight line. In this position the wheel and tire has tons of leverage and can sometimes over power the steering linkage and over travel the wheel angle.
While viewing all the pictures I've downloaded, I've seen some of you guys have complained about the shocks hitting the pipes. But there's a LOT of stuff going on in that area and space is at a premium. I'm sure that a few extra bends can make the pipe fit through there and give more room for the fender and the shocks.
I remember one of my first questions to you about the seemingly large turning radius. You said that the reason for the larger radius was to keep the wheel/fender from hitting the header pipes. You would think drivability and convenience would pull rank over the esthetics of the pipes and something a little different would have been engineered instead.
I think the new upper kits and shocks are getting you guys to a better place as you tweak them for each installation.
