So I deduce from the above that BOTH switches must have failed, since I can’t replicate the function of the fuel cut out switch. Perhaps it is making intermittent contact . Can’t think why it would be corrected by blipping the throttle though.
Does anyone know if the switch is “open circuit” normally, and “closed circuit” when braking, or the other way round? If the former, maybe I should just disconnect it? ( after footling about with the new brake light switch terminals, they are too well protected to get a tester on them, without getting the guard plate off and exposing the neoprene nightmare again.)
P.s where can I get one of those gadgets that makes a V8 noise, please?
With this post you were very close to the issue.
Correction:
Stuart, I re-read the beginning of the thread. Sorry I forgot that you replaced the brake light switch (right switch). No need to compare...the old switch was certainly an NC switch as well, as Richard above also states and otherwise your brake light probably would not have worked resp. would be always on when not braking in the past. My request from last night was if you could see if the LEFT switch (BPS) is an NC or NO switch on your car.
But be careful before you measure the switch and apply voltage to it, disconnect both wires not to damage the ECU.
