Having read the data sheet on Loctite 660 there is no way I would use it on a splined drive shaft. I suspect it would be extremely difficult to remove the wheel once it had fully set.
Yes. That was my original worry. But it is not being used on the splines of course. Then same data sheets and the classic Jaguar Community convinced me I was wrong. Loctite makes nothing that comes to mind that is irreversible. And logically speaking, how many times does one remove a splined shaft?!!! Even with my mileage on my two splined hubbed Morgans, I have never done so!
And I believe you both did not examine the release temperature of this stuff.
IT IS 250C. After all, we all use Loctite in some format
or should. You gentlemen did not check out the release temperatures for the most common Loctites and compare them with this treatment? Two of the most common Loctites have a HIGHER release point. The people at Loctite are not nuts (PUN!!!)[/b]
LOCTITE RED = 260C
LOCTITE GREEN = 260C
[LOCTITE BLUE = 160CLastly, as I suggested, it is something the MMC can check out far easier than an owners' forum can. Many of us are aware that the current owners of the MMC desert rally race 1979/80 Plus 8s. Their very capable race preparer can check this option easily. (Drying is 15-20 minutes and full cure time is 24 hours.) Great PR for them. I wouldn't pass it up.
though there is often a priority difference between owners and current Management. L.
P.S.
Added later. That being said, it is why I listed cures in an order of preference. The biggest concern from a point of view of cost, would be whether the splines have been prejudiced and if so, whether that is to an non-repairable extent.,
