Main tip is that it has to be really quite high at the back to get the clearance you want underneath - you might have to raise the front up a bit so that the boot lid will stay open without a prop. After that the order (more or less) I did things was;
Undo the P-clips holding the brake line and the handbrake cable to the swingarm and cut any tie wraps on them.
Disconnect the brake line, wrap the nipple on the drum in tape to protect it, bag the end of the hose and tie it up high and out the way - you don't have to do this but it would be easy to damage the hose otherwise and it gives a good deal more freedom to move the drum.
Remove the split pin and loosen the spindle nut - 36mm or 1.7/16" spanner on the nut and 24mm on the spindle if necessary.
Back the adjusters right off and push the wheel all the way forward and push the belt off the sprocket over to the left.
Get a jack under the wheel, or better use a
Scissor Lift which goes down really low and gives a big flat surface for the wheel to sit on and can be driven with a battery drill. (I use mine instead of a jack to lift the ThreeWheeler) and just about take the weight of the wheel.
Roll the wheel backwards so that the wheel assembly complete with spindle and adjusters comes clear of the swingarm and lower it down being careful to not over strain the handbrake cable then pull out the spindle and pull out the brake assembly - probably have to tilt the wheel a bit to get this out and like many drum brakes it might not want to come easily. I just leant the brake assembly against one of the axle stands which was in a convenient place for it.
The wheel can now be lifted out through the top - you did take the boot liner and any trailer mudguard off first didn't you?
Re-assembly is pretty much just a reversal of the removal - the bike lift is really good here as you can have it fully lowered with the wheel sitting on it while you get the brake back into the drum and the spindle, spacer and adjusters all back together then raise it up and guide everything back into place; once at the right level and with the wheel squared up to the swingarm you can just roll it forward in to place with the adjusters sitting correctly on to the ends of the swingarm then get the belt back on and remove the lift.
There is nothing to indicate alignment for the spindle so it's a case of getting a little bit of tension on the spindle nut so that it will move, but not too easily, then spin up the adjusters till it looks about right and start spinning the wheel backwards and forwards by hand. If it's out of alignment the belt will want to walk to the right or left and its a case of adjusting it till it stays in the one line on its own in both directions then adjusting both adjusters equally to get the right tension.
I've set mine to allow about a 45 degree twist in the centre of the run - people seem to have different opinions on this, but this works for me.
Then tighten the spindle nut - somewhere between really quite tight and effing tight then tightened slightly more to get the hole for the split pin lined up with the castellations.
Check the alignment is still happy and fit the split pin (4mm split pins fit nicely - can't remember how long 45 or 50mm I think)
Do up the lock nuts on the adjusters.
Re-connect the brake line and re-fit the P-clips and tie wraps on the line and the handbrake cable.
Bleed the brake. With a broomstick threaded through the steering wheel on to the brake pedal I could work the pedal with one hand and the 8mm spanner on the bleed nipple with the other. Might be tricky on a LHD car though.
That's about it apart from the boot tray and any mudguard.
Car tyre shops should be able to fit the tyre with the sprocket in place without any problem but you might want somewhere that works with bike tyre to get it balanced. I balanced mine myself on a static balancer that I have from my bike days.
Many thanks to whoever it was that posted recently to say that you don't have to undo the shocks to drop the swingarm low enough to take the spindle out but can slide the whole wheel assembly backwards off the end of the swingarm - I hadn't spotted that at all and it makes life so much easier.
I've got no connection with the outfit selling the bike lifts on eBay apart from being a happy customer. There are lots of people selling them and similar. I went for the type that has a hex drive so that I can stick a socket on my battery drill to wind it up and down, the T-bar ones might get a bit tedious.
