Excellent advice from you both, Richard & Rog.
Yes, I intend to use Monty's column switch and the Morgan wiring, so it’s helpful to know the PCB that controls that circuit can be problematic, I assume/pray the circuit does also include a traditional make/break relay so it would be helpful to know where it lives?
Not sure why you would want to do that given the extra wiring Dave, but your call. Remember extra load's will be placed on headlamp and maybe dip switch, assuming you use halogen bulbs for both.
My advice has been based on the assumption you would source and fit the optional front fog switch and use the existing plug and play behind dash connector. This is what MMC would have done if front fogs or spots had been spec'd on new car. If you want to go this route, once you have sorted and wired the lights at the front, you will need to drop the dash. There you should find an unused 8 pin connector with just two wires leading to it, red/orange and wait for it, blue/yellow, and yes have traced this to the front of car
As a test it will do no harm just to jumper these two connections together to simulate simple toggle switch and check to see your fogs light up. Note you will need to have sidelights on first though.
As far as I can see the auxiliary front light wiring/switching doesn't involve anything to do with the PCB Rog mentions or indeed any relay.
Hi Richard,
I really should take the time to read your instructions better, 'My Bad' as the youf would say
After reading and digesting your latest comments they promoted me to look back at your earlier instructions.... and low and behold I found this.....
"To this end, no the blue/yellow wires are not permanently live they are controlled by the dash wiring which is already in place to an unused connector, allowing the optional fog light switch to be added"
I never expected the wires to be permanently live as this would be deadly, but I was so convinced they were controlled by the fog light switch on the stalk I totally overlooked your critical pearl of wisdom above
I can now see why Morgan went with blue with a yellow trace, I suspect it's because the wires were intended as dual purpose, i.e they could be used with the auxiliary switch to control
either a set of driving lights,
or a set of fog lights depending on what was fitted. It could also explain why Rog talks of PCB failures, if someone say took the a +12v off the rear fog light to power two front fog lights thinking this was a way to use the stalk fog switch to power all three lights but failed to appreciate the PCB was never designed to carry that level of load, I can totally see why it could fry the board.
So, to control my new front fog lights I now need to source and fit the optional auxiliary light switch, and then use the existing plug and play connector block behind the dash I actually had no idea existed, right up until you drummed it into my thick skull! If that's the case I'd be super grateful can you link me to where I can buy the switch that comes with the right connection, and give me a few pointers on exactly where under dash I should go searching for the mystery connector block, if at all possible a photo of said connector block would be a massive help too
I think you've saved me a lot of head scratching, after finding the blue wires with a yellow trace my next step would have been to put my multimeter on them with the headlights and the stalk mounted fog light switch on too, I would have then assumed the circuit to be faulty and may have even progressed to running the live feed for my new front fogs off the rear fog light relay which by the sound of it may not have ended well for me or Monty
Many thanks for all your help Richard, if you do have a photo of the connector block and can link me to the right switch I'd be very grateful indeed
