I'm sure you're right chaps and of course I bow to your superior knowledge on the subject, I’m just working on the principle that if you choose a fuse value that's correct, or even on the low side of ideal, it’ll blow long before the insulation around it melts.
After all, is this not the very working principle of a fuse?
If the result of fitting a fuse of a lower than ideal value is for the fuse not to blow, but to get so hot it actually melts its own insulation causing an undeniable fire hazard, you’d likely be safer running no fuses at all. As a young mechanic I was taught that if I find evidence of this initially counterintuitive condition, I should go looking for a point of high resistance. Indeed I subsequently went on to see this melting fuse issue on a number of occasions over the years, typically it was traced to corrosion somewhere in the circuit, but in one case it was down to a loose terminal.
Anyway, back to the subject of LEDs, I’ve been a fan for years, I put my TVR on LED H4s back in 2014 with good results. Of course things have moved on considerably in recent years with the LEDs I fitted to Monty last year proving to be exceptional, however, the Marchal LEDs remain untested so I’ll report back as soon as I've thoroughly tested them.
Merry Christmas to you all
