Originally Posted by RichardV6
Can't think of a better word than to echo John's, awesome work Rog thumbs

I assumed you had removed the PCB, if so does this mean the heater fan switch now directly operates the motor?

Hope you don't mind the following suggestion. I note that Spots can only be activated (correctly) with main beam but rear fog relay takes coil power from red/orange wire which is sidelight feed. I recall this is repeating MMC's loom wiring on 2006-14 cars which I always considered wrong. Ideally it should take feed from headlamp supply before dipswitch. This is how the later cars function with BCU control so possibly worth consideration given it's a simple fix.

Thanks for the tip Richard. I didn’t really give the fog light that much attention. Thought I copied how it originally worked when I had to temporarily rewire it but it has passed the mot a couple of times like this.

Yes the new 20A heater switch drives the blower motor directly so no relays to worry about.



Originally Posted by Image
Great work and good to document it .... with Morgan's being long-lived the later cars are likely to outlive their electronics which are less easy to replicate than the mechanical parts ... good that future owners have a fix in the years to come when the troublesome pcbs are no longer available.

Thanks. I agree, the more electronics I can bin the better thumbs


Originally Posted by IcePack
Good work Roger. As a matter of interest, did you manage to find what had caused the original fault on the PCB ?
Thinking that it would be either a component failure or dry joint/track continuity fault. Both should be an easy fix. However if the fault is impossible to find their in shows the problem of these type of faults.

I haven’t actually confirmed the original fault yet Bob. However I have quickly powered the pcb up on the bench and can see that the fault it still there, the fog light is permanently on. It appears to be using a regular 2n3904 transistor as a switch/driver for the fog light relay coil and that looks like it may have failed in the on state. I’ve ordered up a few transistors (15 pence each, ouch!) and have a few diodes here just in case too. It’s low priority at the moment but would like it back working as it gives me the option to swap back. I will report back!


Roger
2011 Plus 4